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Cazan

Best method for splicing wire

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Cazan
Posted (edited)

I'm getting ready to install my Kicker KMS67 tower system.  The Kicker Manuel wire diagram has a jumper wire running from each positive/negative terminal that's connects the horn and driver together and then splice into that and run to the amp channel.  

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Whats the best way to splice?  Butt connection heat shrunken? Quick connect like this?

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Or soder and heat shrink? 

I emailed Kicker and waiting for response.

Edited by Cazan

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COOP

Solder and heat shrink. T taps can be very problematic and could corrode or disconnect over time. Crimp caps and t taps are not meant to be exposed outside.

The cleanest way if youre wiring up like  the 3 can illustration would be to go into the first can, then daisy chain to each of the other can. You can solder the wires for speaker number two onto wires to speaker number one and so forth.

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jk13

Two wires into one terminal on the speaker if they are quality terminals. Fewer connection points to fail and you keep the wire flexible.

Crimp or solder are fine if the person using them knows how.

Never use T-taps or Scotch-locks. First things to get thrown away if I come into a shop that uses them.

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MLA

What pods are you using? If they have binding posts, the junction can be made there.

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Cazan
3 minutes ago, MLA said:

What pods are you using? If they have binding posts, the junction can be made there.

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Titan cans for Illusion X. No binding posts. 

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Cazan
Posted (edited)
59 minutes ago, jk13 said:

Two wires into one terminal on the speaker if they are quality terminals. Fewer connection points to fail and you keep the wire flexible.

Crimp or solder are fine if the person using them knows how.

Never use T-taps or Scotch-locks. First things to get thrown away if I come into a shop that uses them.

Ok. The terminal has a male spade.  So I could crimp the jumper wire and amp wire together to a female spade and plug that into one terminal correct? Obviously heat shrinking all the connections. 

Edited by Cazan

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jk13
13 minutes ago, Cazan said:

Ok. The terminal has a male spade.  So I could crimp the jumper wire and amp wire together to a female spade and plug that into one terminal correct? Obviously heat shrinking all the connections. 

That works.

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MLA

Ok, so surface mounted pods with the leads passing through the pod to the tower, right? Short jumper from upper pod to lower pod. Jumper connected to the spring loaded binding posts on the driver, jumper run into tower, back out tower into lower pod, along with the lead going to the amp. Make junction in lower pod by connecting both wire pairs to the appropriate binding pods of the lower driver. No actual "splice" needed, just join the wires are the lower pod, right on the driver's binding posts. 

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Cazan
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, MLA said:

Ok, so surface mounted pods with the leads passing through the pod to the tower, right? Short jumper from upper pod to lower pod. Jumper connected to the spring loaded binding posts on the driver, jumper run into tower, back out tower into lower pod, along with the lead going to the amp. Make junction in lower pod by connecting both wire pairs to the appropriate binding pods of the lower driver. No actual "splice" needed, just join the wires are the lower pod, right on the driver's binding posts. 

Yes, surface mounts with leads passing through the tower.  That makes much more sense. I just looked at them and they do have binding posts.  I was looking at my KM65s by mistakes which have the male spade. Thanks for  the help. 

Edited by Cazan

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holden

But the heAt shrink soldering connectors!

best of both worlds. Then put shrink wrap over it as well.

a good heat gun will melt the soldering in a all-in-one connector and you don’t need to frig around with a soldering iron.

i got a bunch off eBay for pennies each.

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