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hawaiianstyln

08 PowerWedge jumper?

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hawaiianstyln

Some documentation I read said that I have a 30 amp thermal fuse for the power wedge.  Which I thought was resettable.??  That green fuse does not look like it's resettable and it appears it's hot glued in there (a dab of hot glue on the side of the fuse maybe to hold it in).  Anyways, I wasn't sure if there are any more inline fuses that someone knows about for the 08 PW era.  Also some documentation I read said that you can pull the fuse and place it in a jumper slot PW UP or jumper slot PW down to manually force the wedge and bypass the Medallion.  I don't see these jumper slots for the power wedge so that must be on newer models.  I have my PW wedge deployed down while winterization and had an odd incident a month or so ago with the PW auto deploying back upright for no reason (another post of mine) and moving the paddle wheel in the proper direction is not allowing me to force the wedge back in the upright position.  I'm also not sure if I just take the white/black PW wires off from the medallion box and directly connect them to the battery, is that bypassing the brain and can force the wedge up down (reverse polarity to go back down)?

Anyone know what those DIB switches are for. 

Medallion1.thumb.jpg.3364c72df5bc024696e2ed250bcd9a8d.jpg

 

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kerpluxal

there is an inline fuse for the wedge as well... I am not at boat and can't take a pic right now.. It is not in the Viper Box.. it is inline on a red wire.... when you poke your head up there you will see it..

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hawaiianstyln
2 minutes ago, kerpluxal said:

there is an inline fuse for the wedge as well... I am not at boat and can't take a pic right now.. It is not in the Viper Box.. it is inline on a red wire.... when you poke your head up there you will see it..

Yes I was looking all around for that 20amp inline fuse but I think that is on the newer models than mine. 

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hawaiianstyln
46 minutes ago, kerpluxal said:

 

That's odd, there is no fuse there on mine.  But then again that same 30amp fuse @Malibudude talks about is located inside my medallion box as you can see in my original pic.  I pulled that fuse and ohm'd it out and had no resistance (.1) which was the same resistance on another known good fuse I had.  I'm assuming the fuse is good.  I did try and use the multimeter to check volts on both fuse prongs when I removed the fuse.  I had 12+ volts.  Then I put the fuse back on and meter checked volts on the PW black and white wires connected to the medallion and it didn't read anything.  I'm unsure if that means anything.  Maybe it will only register power if the buttons are pressed to deploy/up/down.

I also checked the calibration "A-D" range and document I have says the range should be 10-30 count when wedge is all the way down (which it is) and my dash read 97.  That must mean it is not calibrated correctly.  This could be the issue of why it won't move back up even spinning the paddle wheel in the proper direction and trying to deploy back upright.

 

Thanks all, there is a reason why I pay to support this site.  :werule:

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hawaiianstyln

This is what I'm referring to:

 

  • Verify the wedge foil is adjusted correctly so that the tips of the wedge foil are level with the top of the transom bracket.
  • Start by lowering the wedge all the way down. Hit the button a few times to make sure it’s all the way down.
  • Now enter the set up screen, then into the Wedge Calibration screen. With the wedge all the way down, the top number (A-D) must be in the correct range of 10-30. With a higher number here, the Mali-view system will not accept the calibration. (Note: this value will lower as the voltage increases when the engine is running).
  • As long as the top number (A-D) is with in the range of 10-30 counts when the wedge is all the way down position, you are OK to press enter to calibrate the down position. If the top number (A-D) is not with in this range, you will need to loosen the screws on the sensor and rotate it to get the A-D in the correct range. You may need to remove the sensor and rotate the hex axle a bit in order to get the hex axle to line up in the proper range.
  • Once you have the sensor in the correct position and tightened down with the AD in the 10-30 counts range with the wedge all the way down, you can now push the enter button to calibrate the down position.
  • Once you have calibrated the down position the system will tell you to raise the wedge to the up position, you will need to simulate a boat speed between 1-9.9 MPH. you must spin the paddle wheel first, and then push the "up" button.
  • Once you have the wedge all the way up, push the enter button to calibrate the up position.
  • Now would be a good time to test and verify that the sensor is operating as it should and to verify that the bolt that the sensor is connected to can’t rock or move. Drop the wedge all the way down; is the A-D value the same as it was before you cycled it up & down? As long as the A-D value is with in 5 counts of the original value, the system is working as it should. If the value is very different, you could have a bolt that is too loose or you have a defective sensor.

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kerpluxal

So,,, all good now?

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hawaiianstyln

just tried to perform the calibration on the sensor and unscrewed the two screws so I could rotate the sensor.  Rotated sensor 60 degrees which was 100% opposite of where it was mounted and the A-D value jumped up to a whopping 192.  I then rotated it back as far as I could and the lowest value I get is 89.  Arggggg, this has to be the issue. 

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hawaiianstyln

I wonder if I have to remove the sensor and move the "Hex axle" to get the value lower.  I'm trying hard to not have to trailer this thing to the dealer, but I'm very okay with supporting my local dealer since I haven't once yet.

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hawaiianstyln

was able to move the hex axle down to A-D 0.  Then I remounted the sensor and rotated it a hair to get it to range between 10-30.  Re-calibrated still nothing.  I'm not sure I'm getting power tho because the main black/white wires that plug into the PW section on the Medallion have no voltage but if I remove the fuse it and check the meter at the fuse prongs I get 12.7 volts. 

 

Does anyone know if I can hot wire those wires right to the battery to jump the wedge and power it?  I can't remember where I read that I thought you can do that check if voltage travels to the wedge and moves it, then reverse polarity to move it back the other way.

 

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BearCreekBum

You will only have voltage on the main black/white wires when you are pushing the buttons to move the wedge while spinning the paddle wheel. 

Another possibility is that the MUX switch for the wedge up has stopped working. Can you verify that the other commands on that switch are working?

You can remove the main black/white wires and connect them to a 12 volt source like the batteries or a jump starter and it will supply power directly to the actuators. If you can put an inline fuse when you do this it is safer. If you have a bad actuator without any fuse protection you could burn up the wire going from the helm to the wedge.

Sorry not much help.

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hawaiianstyln
9 minutes ago, BearCreekBum said:

You will only have voltage on the main black/white wires when you are pushing the buttons to move the wedge while spinning the paddle wheel. 

Another possibility is that the MUX switch for the wedge up has stopped working. Can you verify that the other commands on that switch are working?

You can remove the main black/white wires and connect them to a 12 volt source like the batteries or a jump starter and it will supply power directly to the actuators. If you can put an inline fuse when you do this it is safer. If you have a bad actuator without any fuse protection you could burn up the wire going from the helm to the wedge.

Sorry not much help.

Okay I jumped the wires and got the wedge to come up.  Reversed polarity and wedge went back down no issues.  My continuity check on the fuse went from 30+ down to zero as I just checked it again.  Im not a electrical guru but I thought that means zero resistance which means the fuse works fine/not blown.

I also did push the buttons on the MUX up/down/deploy and no voltage registered on those white/black wires.  That MUX switch is brand new as I got a rainfall on an uncovered boat last year and it all fell on the right mux switch.  Replacement has been fine since.  The other buttons do work on the right MUX controller.  When I do push the buttons on the up/down/deploy the digital symbols highlight when you push each one.

I'm wondering when my wedge auto deployed up from the down winterized position a month ago when working on the shower pump (out of the blue) was actually the medallion circuit board shorting out on the PW section?  It's possible.

I'm going to find another 30 amp fuse for replacement JUST to make sure.  If it's truly not the fuse, the only thing I can think of is the circuit board has an issue between the fuse mount and the two posts for the PW wires.

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hawaiianstyln

testing confirmed.  Mux controller buttons work properly especially on the other modes.  When pushing the buttons for deploy/down/up there is still no voltage at the PW terminals and there should be.  I even jumped the fuse terminals ruling out the fuse and still no voltage at the terminals for power.  The only thing I can think of is that something shorted out the day I was working on the shower pump causing the wedge to deploy back up right and now there is an issue in the circuit board.  That is the only thing I can think of after narrowing it down to Root Cause Analysis.  I'm a Cyber Forensic guy and refuse to give up until RCA is found. :)

So it's either a new circuit board or I hard wire the switch to the Medallion Pos/Neg terminals and place an inline 30a fuse between the dual rocker switch.  I don't even know how much a circuit board would be.  Wondering if it's even worth having someone attempt to fix or test the circuit board and if indeed I'm correct, then they could possible fix the short?

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BearCreekBum

Appears you have done a very thorough job of troubleshtroubleshooting and the issue is in the Medallion box. Hopefully that is something that can be fixed without replacing the entire Medallion box.

Please let us know what you find out. 

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SouthsideBoarder

I had issues with my medallion box when it came to the wedge. Kept cycling down when the batteries were on even if the ignition was off. My medallion box looked different than yours though. It was an 08 vtx. Ended up having to replace the box sadly and wasn’t cheap. 

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hawaiianstyln
2 minutes ago, SouthsideBoarder said:

I had issues with my medallion box when it came to the wedge. Kept cycling down when the batteries were on even if the ignition was off. My medallion box looked different than yours though. It was an 08 vtx. Ended up having to replace the box sadly and wasn’t cheap. 

Am i looking at $1k+ to replace the medallion?  I could just find a reverse polarity rocker switch for $15 and be operational.  The only question on that would be how bad would it hurt resale value.  I mean the wedge will still work with rocker switch and you can buy the older style rocker switch wedge cover too.  

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SouthsideBoarder

 

9 hours ago, hawaiianstyln said:

Am i looking at $1k+ to replace the medallion?  I could just find a reverse polarity rocker switch for $15 and be operational.  The only question on that would be how bad would it hurt resale value.  I mean the wedge will still work with rocker switch and you can buy the older style rocker switch wedge cover too.  

That should work. The medallion box was over 1k, but install isn’t horrible.

I’m not sure how it would affect resale value or potential sales. Personally, I’d be on the fence. It’s nice to have everything be on factory switches and not modified too much, but also having replaced a medallion box it would be nice to not have to potentially deal with it again. 

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hawaiianstyln
On ‎3‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 8:11 AM, SouthsideBoarder said:

The medallion box was over 1k, but install isn’t horrible.

You were correct, dealer wanted $1,100

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hawaiianstyln

at this point, I will be bypassing the built in power module in the Medallion box for the Power Wedge component until I'm ready to spend $1,100 on a whole new Medallion board (struggling to spend that much when the bypass is less than $35. 

I have bought a reverse polarity rocker switch, power wedge rocker switch cover plate from Bakes and a nice rocker switch panel holder for the switch.  Since my PW gauge on the dash still works properly to tell me wedge position, this bypass fix should work pretty great minus the built in safety feature of having to go 1-9 mph to get the wedge to deploy back upright.

My question would be:  Since the power module has a built in 30a thermal fuse, I'm assuming I will need an inline 30a fuse with this rocker switch bypass.  However, since this is a reverse polarity switch, wouldn't I have to have an inline fuse after the rocker switch and before the leading wires to the PW actuators?  Additionally, wherever the inline fuse goes architecturally and since this is a reverse polarity switch, I would probably need 2 inline 30a fuses?  One on each wire leading back to the actuators since those would get the polarity switch to deploy down or back up. 

 

Rocker switch I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1G5AR6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Switch Cover to make it look Malibu Uniform:

https://www.bakesonline.com/switch-cover-only-power-wedge.html

Rocker Switch metal holder:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOOTHILL-OFFROAD-Air-Locker-Switch-Single-Mounting-Panel/141638986794?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Db61797ea58eb4acf98d02b73409c519b%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D141638986794%26itm%3D141638986794&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

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