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Wanting to do my own Oil Change


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I have the 320LCR motor in my 2010... I’d like to do my own oil changes. 

What tools/items do I need... and any tricks you have to simplify the process would help! 

 

 

 

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Do you have the oil drain tube, if so run it to the hull drain plug and let it drain.  If you have an electric or manual pump, hook it up and pump that thing dry.  If no drain tube, you can pump through the dipstick depending on your pump.  I got this one, a little expensive, but I can do my oil changes on the water, no mess, and the oil pan is empty in minutes.  Pays for itself the first time you do it.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8F562/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Remote oil filter?  Strong hands and some choice words, or use a filter wrench to twist it off.  Get a couple plastic shopping bags to drop it in once you get it loose, there will be oil dripping.  

Top up the new filter, twist on, fill it back up and ride.  :rockon:

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The electric pumps rock. I made one out of a utility pump from harbor freight, a bucket from Lowe’s and A few hose fittings. I attach it directly to the drain hose. Zero mess and it empties super fast.

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Before I bought the electric pump above I’d usually change the oil after a day on the water so the oil was still warm and it could flow easier out of the drain tube. Or use a fake a lake to warm up the engine and oil, but count on getting wet underneath the boat from the feed water.

Chances are the oil filter is overtightend and a pain to get off so find the tool that can fit , don’t know the 2010 engine bay enough to link a tool, but most of them were in tight spots over the years.

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The remote oil filter is easily my favorite mod on the boat maintenance-wise.  Well worth your time and energy to install one, as it makes oil changes a breeze.  And if you don't have the oil drain tube, I'd definitely get one.  After running the engine and recirculating anti-freeze I just drop the tube down into the garboard drain hole over an oil drain pan, remove old oil filters, then come back (days) later and pull the tube up, cap it, fill the filters with oil, install remaining engine oil and you're done except for a quick engine run to check for drips, and you can defer that until spring.

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On 3/4/2018 at 9:20 AM, formulaben said:

The remote oil filter is easily my favorite mod on the boat maintenance-wise.  Well worth your time and energy to install one, as it makes oil changes a breeze.  And if you don't have the oil drain tube, I'd definitely get one.  After running the engine and recirculating anti-freeze I just drop the tube down into the garboard drain hole over an oil drain pan, remove old oil filters, then come back (days) later and pull the tube up, cap it, fill the filters with oil, install remaining engine oil and you're done except for a quick engine run to check for drips, and you can defer that until spring.

Could you point to where to get and how to verify which kit I’d need?

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1 hour ago, racer808 said:

Could you point to where to get and how to verify which kit I’d need?

I did mine from a combo of dealer parts and a Jegs kit.  Cost me about 1/2 what it would have cost for all of the factory parts as my setup doesn't mount to the engine - it also allowed me to run a much bigger oil filter (easily 2x the size of the factory filter).  I don't have a parts list anymore and it would likely be different on your motor anyway, but basically it is the block adapter/fittings - the rest was the universal remote filter kit from Jegs.

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Anything worth doing is worth overdoing, so I went with a double remote filter.  The extra filter (and the recommended extra quart for surfing) makes it a round 2 gallons for oil changes.  Hardest part of installation was getting the adapter on with the gasket perfectly aligned in the small space under the engine.  An "issue" of small note is that on my Perma-Cool model the adapter changes it back to Ford style oil filters so I'm sure to placard the part numbers for the next owner, if there ever is one.

@racer808 I can't say for sure what model will work for your engine, but if it is based on the Chevy 5.7L/SBC 350 I think you'll be fine with whatever Jeg's or Summit Racing's search engine recommends; just read the fine print in the "applications" or "fitment" tabs of each website.  They both have good tech support phone advisors, so give them a call before purchase to verify.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-10713

http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/15749/10002/-1

 

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29 minutes ago, formulaben said:

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing, so I went with a double remote filter.  The extra filter (and the recommended extra quart for surfing) makes it a round 2 gallons for oil changes.  Hardest part of installation was getting the adapter on with the gasket perfectly aligned in the small space under the engine.  An "issue" of small note is that on my Perma-Cool model the adapter changes it back to Ford style oil filters so I'm sure to placard the part numbers for the next owner, if there ever is one.

@racer808 I can't say for sure what model will work for your engine, but if it is based on the Chevy 5.7L/SBC 350 I think you'll be fine with whatever Jeg's or Summit Racing's search engine recommends; just read the fine print in the "applications" or "fitment" tabs of each website.  They both have good tech support phone advisors, so give them a call before purchase to verify.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-10713

http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/15749/10002/-1

 

Thanks Ben, I have Indmar 6.0L LY6.  Indmar says I already have a remote filter, I can assure them I don't but Larry is looking into it for me.  My oil filter is smaller than the one on my 5.7L indmar so I am not sure if either of these would fit?  Guess I measure the filter diamter & before I start ordering stuff.

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Ha!  Turns out I do have a remote oil filter, but they mounted it top of the engine right behind the hull for the engine cover.  I have to literally go up thru the Vdrive compartment & change it blind.  Why on earth would they remote mount it there?  Working on getting the right stuff to move the damn thing.  

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On 3/4/2018 at 10:20 AM, formulaben said:

  And if you don't have the oil drain tube, I'd definitely get one.  

 

Is there usually a hole in the pan to attach one to?  Ive got a drain tube but a friends supra doesnt and I figured itd be a huge pain to add one.

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Also, does everyones electric pump run in reverse and pump the oil back out of the pail?  I cant remember if mine has a hose to the bottom of the pail or not.  Ive been pouring it out but pumping would be way easier. 

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I usually have no time constraints and I have a garage to work in so my situation is different than most. Here is what I do when I change the oil on mine. The boat has not been started for 1+ months so I stick the drain hose down the drain plug and let it drain into a pan over night, very slowly.  The next day I change the filter.  Since the motor had not been started, there is no oil in the passages above filter so it does not drip at all. Simply fill the filter with oil, install it, fill the motor with oil and fire it up!  I know, I have a DD boat so its much easier to get to everything, but the process should be the same.

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10 hours ago, 05hammerhead said:

Is there usually a hole in the pan to attach one to?  Ive got a drain tube but a friends supra doesnt and I figured itd be a huge pain to add one.

I can't imagine why there wouldn't be one, but there could be some genius who figured you just suck it through the dipstick, which a lot of folks do, but I read about so many problems with that method that I never do it. 

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