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Winterizing older Response Direct Drive - How many do it yourselves?


sunvalleylaw

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12 hours ago, sunvalleylaw said:

Ok, got that one.  The hose end low and got a little water out, then seemed like no more.  And also took the hose off the bilge pump to see if any water was in there.  Nope.  

 

IMG_6618.JPG

 

So got all the water drained I guess.  Will do coolant another day as it is late and dark.  And will check the tranny oil too.  I do think after filling the hoses with coolant, I will fire the engine up with the intake hose in some coolant just to flush everything through once, and also to flush some of the new oil through the system before putting it to bed.  I don't have any fogging stuff, but maybe will do that also.  

Oh, also have to fill up and put stabil in before I fire it up.  I will fill with non-ethanol, which is all that I use anyway.

The first thing I do is fill up with fuel and put stable in. Run the engine to get stable through the system. Then change the oil and filter as oil is warm and drains easier. Change the tranny fluid. Start engine again for a minute. Check and top off oil. Then drain all the water. Fog the cylinders. Give her a few cranks without starting. Then fill with antfreeze. 

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36 minutes ago, tvano said:

i'd shy away from rv anti-freeze in the shower pump.  i think that it reacted with the diaphragm in the pump.  actually two pumps.  no problems since switching to sierra about 15 years ago.

sierra??  Not familiar.

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39 minutes ago, tvano said:

i'd shy away from rv anti-freeze in the shower pump.  i think that it reacted with the diaphragm in the pump.  actually two pumps.  no problems since switching to sierra about 15 years ago.

True.  Best bet is to use a propelene glycol antifreeze that is designed for engines, not stuff designed for toilets.

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1 minute ago, mackie12 said:

while we are on topic, fogging.....do or do not do on a Cat motor?

You can fog the cylinders through plug holes.  Should not fog any port injection engine through the throttle body regardless of it has cats.

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8 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

camco makes a number of appropriate products too.  Sierra is a peak product that is also propelene glycol designed for engines.

Ok, now I am confused.  I have 6 bottles of negative 50.  Not sure the brand.  It was in the case at O'Reilly's.  Will have to see if it is just RV, or RV and Marine like the Camco.  So, do I just change the product I am using for all of it?  Or just put some Sierra/Camco or similar in the shower?  I will be stopping by the house mid-day so I can see what it is.  

Edited by sunvalleylaw
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Just now, sunvalleylaw said:

Ok, now I am confused.  I have 6 bottles of negative 50.  Not sure the brand.  It was in the case at O'Reilly's.  Will have to see if it is just RV, or RV and Marine like the Camco.  So, do I just change the product I am using for all of it?  Or just put some Sierra/Camco or similar in the shower?

Take a look at what you have and post the name. Typically it will say if it is for rv toilets or if it is an actual marine/automotive antifreeze.

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1 minute ago, sunvalleylaw said:

Also, if anyone has a chance to post a pic of the thermostat so I know what I am looking for, I would appreciate it.  Thanks!

The thermostat is under all those big hoses at the top.  No need to remove it unless you are changing it.  Filling through the j hose fills block from bottom up.

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ahopkins22LSV
2 hours ago, Michigan boarder said:

Looks like you got it all.  If in doubt, just look at the engine, and think of which low hose could hold water.  You did the block on each side so you're good there, it just a matter of common sense with the rest - drain at the low points.  Nice duckboard too.

On antifreeze - when we rebuilt my 1994 engine there was a LOT of rust inside, enough where the builder asked if I ever ran in salt water..  The prior owner didn't use antifreeze.  So, I decided to use A/F ever since then, hoping that will keep the corrosion at bay.  I just drain the water from everything, then reconnect it all, and then pour in A/F in the top of the engine where the thermostat goes, and it fills it up.

@ahopkinsTXi, where did you hear the opposite, can you send a link?

I swear it was on here, but I just searched for it and I could find it. If I locate it or remember who posted it I will post back.

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33 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Take a look at what you have and post the name. Typically it will say if it is for rv toilets or if it is an actual marine/automotive antifreeze.

The RV Antifreeze I get is without alcohol, just Propylene glycol - usually the really cheap stuff is a mix.  I remember reading on some boat forum (maybe here), that the alcohol formulas were not the best for rubber parts.

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8 hours ago, oldjeep said:

The thermostat is under all those big hoses at the top.  No need to remove it unless you are changing it.  Filling through the j hose fills block from bottom up.

Ok, thanks.  Just because I have not done this before, can you help point out the J hose?  I was thinking it was the larger, longer one on the starboard side.  There is that pic of my engine at the beginning of the thread if that would help to point it out.  

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This hose with the arrow pointing to it?

 

MalibuMonsoonHose.jpg

 

And then I also pour into the upper heater hose as well, correct?  A gallon each hose?  

Edited by sunvalleylaw
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57 minutes ago, sunvalleylaw said:

This hose with the arrow pointing to it?

 

MalibuMonsoonHose.jpg

 

And then I also pour into the upper heater hose as well, correct?  A gallon each hose?  

Meh, I think I figured it out from looking at the replacement hose at Bake's.  That's the one.  

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23 hours ago, sunvalleylaw said:

Found it.  

http://www.gannproducts.com/fittings.htm

Not sure where to buy them.  Might be just as easy to order that one from Bake's

Ended up getting a radiator drain c*** from O'Reilly's that fit in the black plastic housing to replace the broken part.  Problem fixed for $4.  

 

And ok, filled with a little over two gallons, pouring back down the shower hose, the heater hoses (I went ahead and did both sides) and the J hose.  Now, I just need to fill up the fuel the rest of the way with Stabil added.  I will probably turn it over with some coolant in a bucket just to move all the stuff around.  But maybe I don't need to.  Also will do fall clean up, dryer sheets, etc.  But this will get me through the next weekend when I am out of town and headed to Cali to mountain bike and ski near Sacramento.  (Downieville, then Liquid Zone).  :)

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11 hours ago, oldjeep said:

camco makes a number of appropriate products too.  Sierra is a peak product that is also propelene glycol designed for engines.

And yeah the stuff I got was propelene glycol.

From Amazon: Winter-eez -50 Deg Rv & Marine Propylene Glycol Antifreeze, 1 Gallon (Pack of 6)

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, I wanted to try and run the coolant all the way through.  hooked up a hose to the fake a lake, and filled a bucket and put it high on a ladder.  Filled the hose too.  Recall, I already filled the engine and heater from the J hose and heater hoses.  Turned it on, and it didn't really suck coolant so I turned it off.  Checked on things, and tried again.  Still didn't pull fluid and turned it off.  Both time was well under a minute if that.  So, hmm.  Wondering if I didn't get a seal on the fake a lake to the bottom of the boat.  In any case, not going to try to do it that way again.  Will look into one of the fittings or adaptors to do it next time.  Will also change the impeller too, even though everything was filled with coolant.  Was planning to change impeller anyway at the start of the season of course.  Thoughts?

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ahopkins22LSV
8 hours ago, sunvalleylaw said:

So, I wanted to try and run the coolant all the way through.  hooked up a hose to the fake a lake, and filled a bucket and put it high on a ladder.  Filled the hose too.  Recall, I already filled the engine and heater from the J hose and heater hoses.  Turned it on, and it didn't really suck coolant so I turned it off.  Checked on things, and tried again.  Still didn't pull fluid and turned it off.  Both time was well under a minute if that.  So, hmm.  Wondering if I didn't get a seal on the fake a lake to the bottom of the boat.  In any case, not going to try to do it that way again.  Will look into one of the fittings or adaptors to do it next time.  Will also change the impeller too, even though everything was filled with coolant.  Was planning to change impeller anyway at the start of the season of course.  Thoughts?

I'd wait until spring to change the impeller. No sense stuffing a new one in there to sit all winter. 

And fake lakes have trouble priming from time to time. I wouldn't sweat it. Maybe drain the exhaust manifolds again just to be sure or if you were trying to just pull straight coolant you should be fine. 

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2 hours ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

I'd wait until spring to change the impeller. No sense stuffing a new one in there to sit all winter. 

And fake lakes have trouble priming from time to time. I wouldn't sweat it. Maybe drain the exhaust manifolds again just to be sure or if you were trying to just pull straight coolant you should be fine. 

Thanks.  I did open one of the petcocks and got a little tiny bit of water, then coolant to come out.  I may try the other side as well.  the other petcock is the one I had trouble with, and replaced with a a radiator drainc*** from O'Reilly's and I was not able to get that to drain anything.  I am going to go ahead and order the correct part from Bake's. 

There are hoses that connect to the high side of the manifolds.  Is it worth it or advised to pour coolant in there?  No coolant ever came out of the exhaust when I turned it on.  But coolant was still visible in both the j hose and higher heater hose when I checked there, and I topped both off.  

Edited by sunvalleylaw
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ahopkins22LSV

I've never taken the hoses off on the top of the manifolds. That you drew an arrow to in the picture above. Those drain downhill on their own. I also just drain mine and not refill so I can't really advise on if you should fill the manifolds. 

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