Intro - 1992 Malibu Skier

[jkskier]

Hey guys,

Picked up a 1992 Malibu Skier in June and am looking forward to being a part of the community here.  So far it's spent its life with me in the shop, so I've been digging through the web to learn what I can before I hit the water.  It's been great to see that there's still some enthusiasm for these older models.  My goal with this boat is to build a slalom machine with a few bonus creature comfort items.

I'm not new to boats by any means, but this is the first one that belongs to me.  I've been fixing up a 73 Bronco for the last 12 years so I can do things like weld and rebuild an engine, but fiberglass and getting the lay of the land on staple maintenance/repair supplies is new territory.  My pops helped me out on the detailing supplies - that was his boat warming present to me.

Here's the day I got it home.  Pretty excited!

 

Edited August 1, 2017 by jkskier

[footndale]

Welcome and nice boat

[jkskier]

One of the PO's had been a fan of beaching the boat, so I waited patiently for my Spectrum gelcoat kit to arrive.  Very complete kit and we sprayed it without incident.  (Had I known I could go down the street to Fiberlay for a close color match at half the price and no wait, I would have done that.  Oh well.)  After a couple days of drying, we hit the water.  She started right up, sounded great, and all gauges were in normal range when we left the dock.  Within a couple hundred yards we were accelerating to about 15 MPH and the temp gauge was almost into the red.  Confirmed the intake grate was clear, let it cool off, and cautiously tried again - same result.  So we paddled back to the dock and found rubber chunks in the intake grate.  Off to the shop it went, and the report I got back was that impeller pieces were everywhere and nothing was left where the impeller should be.  New impeller, housing, cleared all the components and serviced the t stat.

But I also had them check the driveline as the prop felt a little loose.  Prop was sent off for R&R and came back no problems.  The driveshaft did not turn out so well.  Due to someone using a non chamfered key, possibly of the wrong material as well, there was a nice big crack all the way down one side of the keyway.  So new driveline, engine leveling, etc.  The rudder had to come out for that to happen, and it was discovered that a new rudder assembly was needed as well.

I should have the boat back by the middle of this month.  It will have an overhauled driveline, new rudder assembly from Marine Hardware, and a fancy pants dripless shaft seal.  So keep posting guys - I'm living vicariously through all of you for the next couple weeks!

[John I.]

Congrats on the boat purchase. Should make a great slalom tug. Classic colors too!! I hope the deferred maintenance was reflected in the purchase price.

[Woodski]

@jkskier:  congrats on your slalom tug, looks fantastic.  I suggest you learn the impeller replacement process, you will do it with some frequency, it is pretty much a routine maintenance item and very easy DIY.  Also, carry a spare.  A pic of the boat and tow vehicle is needed, that will be a cool vintage shot...and maybe add a Connelly Hook (wooden) or Taperflex in the mix.

Edited August 2, 2017 by Woodski

[jkskier]

@John I. It was a decent deal.  When all this is done I'll be into it for what I see them going for online.  The only unknown will be the stringers.  They passed the tap test and the boat's been indoors when not in use for at least the past several years so here's hoping!

@Woodski Definitely on my list to learn, and the plan is to keep a spare on the boat and make it part of the yearly routine.  Let's see...oldest slalom ski at my disposal is an O'Brien Competitor like this.  Very, very fast ski.

...and I'd love to share pics of the whole setup but my tow rig, well...it doesn't exist.  A few of my neighborhood buddies have trucks and have volunteered for tow duty in exchange for rides.  Here's what I got, courtesy of the last owner (below).

In the meantime, I've ordered a Blue Sea eSeries battery switch and a battery box hold down kit.  I'd like to mount the switch on the port side of the center pillar under the dash.  Would it be smart to cover the carpeted mounting surface with anything like plastic sheeting?  It will be surface mounted, not flush mounted.

Teak swimstep is to the point where I can see the boards separating when I flex it with my hands.  Will any stainless steel screws work or do I need a particular variety?

[Michigan boarder]

Normally I am not a fan of the 90's teal color schemes, but I really like yours - that is a great looking boat!

[Andrew999]

Nice looking boat! Hope you get it out and running soon. I wish I had your color scheme on mine. 

[jkskier]

Just got the call I've been waiting for - repairs are done!  I opted to have the shop take it out for a lake test prior to getting it back, so I'll have her early next week.  Stoked!

[braindamage]

Congrats welcome to the 'crew!! Great first post.

 A tow rig will be a high priority as I think bumming a tow will get old unless you find a fellow ski zealot. 

I'd start to look at a perfect pass as well. They are great for when others are driving your boat.

let us know how maiden voyage #2 goes!

 

[braindamage]

That O'Brien is an old ski. Those old bindings are like downhill skiing in slippers. 

Do you have access to anything newer? Ski tech has changed dramatically. I suggest taking a look at the Ball of Spray forum if you are looking to get into skiing.

[jkskier]

@braindamage It's going to be a few months out, but I'd like to get my own tow rig.  The 90's F250 seems like a good fit for me.

I really don't have a clue about the throttle control systems like Perfect Pass.  It's an electronic system, right?  How would that interface with an all manual, cable throttle system and a carb?

Thanks for the BOS link - I'll start reading up.  Lots to learn...  I've been skiing on a 66" Duvall with dual high wrap Wiley bindings since we bought it in the late 90's.  I'm 6'2" and 225 if I'm in shape, and I always feel like my back leg is fighting through wet cement when I turn.

[riggowrestler]

Perfect pass is awesome!  They sell versions that are compatible with older carb boats and the install only takes a couple hours.  In many ways PP is safer since you can concentrate on what is in front of you instead of maintaining speed.

 

A 66" ski is WAY too small for your weight.  Your a good man for ripping it up on that ice skate all this time.  You really need a 71"+ ski but unfortunately the ski industry doesn't think that big guys like to cut turns at high speeds.  

[jkskier]

Read up on PP, it IS awesome!

The boat came back home yesterday and we did some cruising around.  Handles great, runs great!  Very happy to see the temp gauge never go over half.  I have a couple projects to tinker with - a loose cleat and a stereo that won't turn on when running, but those are easy 'fun' items.  I put a spare impeller in the glove box for good measure.  Rearmost teak board on the swim step is flat out cracked; almost thinking I should just shorten the step for now.  I wonder if that would reduce stress on the transom since that would force anyone on there to be closer to the boat.

She definitely doesn't like slow cruising.  Oil pressure drops real low under 1k.  We did a slow cruise with a boat full of neighbors and as we were docking it was trying to die on me.  Throttle forward - drift while revving in neutral - reverse - drift while revving in neutral - etc.  I'll have to work on eliminating variables to see if I can find a cause.  Or maybe that's normal?

Made me laugh to see my boat next to my neighbor's old Reinell.  It looks like a Porsche parked next to a Super Duty.

QQ - if I pull a tube, do I hook it up to the rear grab bar above the transom or do I need to get a bridle and use the rear tie down hooks?

[Rednucleus]

I always pulled a tube from the pylon - figured it's the strongest spot on the boat made for that purpose

[Michigan boarder]

Some suggestions:

Oil pressure:

1. What oil is in it?  If not sure, change it.  Run 40w oil, that is standard.  I use either Delo 400 or Rotella 15W40 (got it from multiple recommendations here on this site)

Idle.  It should idle very comfortably at 600 or so RPM.  You should be able to idle all day (or night) for a scenic cruise with no issues, it is not normal for these boats to want to die at idle.

1. Change plugs, cap, and rotor.  I don't know if that had points or electronic ignition, but if points then change those too.  Might as well change the wires too.  Then you know you are good with all of that stuff for several years.
2. Set your timing.  A timing light is cheap, the process is simple, and then you know right where you are at.
3. Idle adjustment (after all the above is done) is also simple, at the cable where it connects to the carb

Good idea to shorten the swim step, it won't hurt anything.

Yes, tube can connect to the rear grab handle.  Or the transom eyes with bridle, either one.  I usually do mine from the pylon, but with peeps in the boat the grab handle is better.

 

Edited August 16, 2017 by Michigan boarder

[jkskier]

Thank you Michigan Boarder!  Between your recommendations and those of the shop, it looks like I'll be doing an oil change, checking the points and carb, and getting fresher gas in there.  Already looked up the oil extractor threads on this site and have a pump in my Amazon cart.  Was thrilled to see I don't have the 'upside down' oil filter.

For technical reference, I've looked up my engine serial number (D840227, stamped on a plate near back of engine) at perfprotech.com.  They say I have a 'MIE 1993 5.7L Competition Ski Engine' with model #3579111FS.  Odd because my boat is a 92.  The air cleaner cap says it's a 'MIE 5.7 Litre Ski', and the engine serial # sticker in that location is missing.

I've also made it over to the Mercury Marine catalog online.  There are various models listed with similar names, and although it lists next to each what I would presume to be engine serial numbers, none of them seem remotely close to mine.

So how do I find a manual when I don't know what engine I have?  I'm not sure what my timing should be, and I'll need this for other stuff.  Any ideas?

[jkskier]

BTW - is it cool that I use my intro thread to go into these types of questions/projects, or should I be doing so elsewhere?

In other news, I got my Blue Sea 9003e battery switch, 2/0 tinned cable, heavy wall tinned lugs, and 1 inch adhesive lined heat shrink in the mail.  Also received was a Lincoln crimper and new battery hold down kit.  I used genuinedealz.com after reading another thread on here.  Cheesy name but their stuff seems solid.  

Battery will be going to the port side of the dash support with the switch on the support.  Since the posts of the switch come close to the carpet, I called Blue Sea and asked if I should have something between the posts and the carpet.  Their take was any plastic that is dialectric or non conducting would be good, and recommended something like 'Kings Starboard'.  Since I have some HDPE laying around, I'll use a small square of that.

Overall pretty easy to crimp lugs.  2-3 whacks with a 25lb plate and I was golden.  I should have gone with 3/4 inch heat shrink, but this stuff got the job done.  Last pic shows before and after heat as well as some of my other supplies.

[jkskier]

Couple amateur questions for you guys:

I have this hose that is secured above the manifold.  It is the hose that comes from the bottom of the oil pan, and I want to route it through the hull plug hole to drain the oil.  Can anyone confirm that this is it's intended purpose before I apply some force to get it to unthread?

Second, the trailer has an oddball rubber 'cushion' on a piece of flat stock by the bow hook.  It's falling apart.  Can't find them online, anyone know where I can get a new one (or retrofit ideas)?

Lastly, I need a new strap.  There is no anchor bolt on my winch - not even the slot where one would go.  The old strap was run through a couple of the holes on the side of the pulley and tied off in a knot.  Is it a big no-no to continue with this practice when I put on the new strap?

Thanks!

Edited August 28, 2017 by jkskier

[MadMan]

17 minutes ago, jkskier said:

Couple amateur questions for you guys:

I have this hose that is secured above the manifold.  It is the hose that comes from the bottom of the oil pan, and I want to route it through the hull plug hole to drain the oil.  Can anyone confirm that this is it's intended purpose before I apply some force to get it to unthread?

Second, the trailer has an oddball rubber 'cushion' on a piece of flat stock by the bow hook.  It's falling apart.  Can't find them online, anyone know where I can get a new one (or retrofit ideas)?

Lastly, I need a new strap.  There is no anchor bolt on my winch - not even the slot where one would go.  The old strap was run through a couple of the holes on the side of the pulley and tied off in a knot.  Is it a big no-no to continue with this practice when I put on the new strap?

Thanks!

 

 

Yes, that hose is for draining the oil.  What are you trying to unthread?

Don't know about the rubber piece.

Yes, run the strap though the holes and tie it off.  By the way, when I install a strap, I cut it down to about 4'.  I can't imagine ever winching a boat 20' and the reduced amount of strap make it's easier to winch the boat on (the smaller diameter of the spooled up strap gives more mechanical advantage turning the crank, reduces the effort by about 1/2).

Edited August 28, 2017 by MadMan

[jkskier]

For you slalom guys who had advised me to get a longer ski, I did!  Radar put me in touch with one of their R&D (?) guys and he was as friendly and helpful as could be.  There's a Senate Graphite with my name on it moving through North Dakota as we speak.  Got it at a steal through Wake House in Michigan.  Wanted to make sure it would be insured during shipping but couldn't reach anyone on the phone - not a great sign.  Pinged them on Facebook and they were all over it.  I had a quick answer and they went ahead and spent a few bucks to insure it for me at no added cost to myself.  Even sent a follow up email later.  I'm very impressed.

The downside is that it's doubtful I'll be able to use it this season.  Need to figure out the lay of the land on bindings yet (ski is blank), and I have a broken rib that is taking its sweet time to heal.  (Didn't stop me from wake surfing though.  Had a little fun last week behind the family's Wakesetter.)

[jkskier]

@MadMan - It's a bit tight, didn't want to force something that shouldn't be forced.  Good call on cutting down the strap.

[MadMan]

14 minutes ago, jkskier said:

@MadMan - It's a bit tight, didn't want to force something that shouldn't be forced.  Good call on cutting down the strap.

I had the same problem with my drain hose, so I permanently added a short extension of pipe, from Lowes, that is able to slip the drain hole.  I attached it with a 90 degree fitting to make the bend through the floor.

Edited August 28, 2017 by MadMan

[jkskier]

Well, plenty of gasoline in the oil...guess that means new fuel pump.  Nothing metallic though, thank goodness.

[jkskier]

Have completed: new fuel pump, oil change.  Used Permatex 59214 on the fuel line threads, Gasgacinch on the fuel pump gasket.  Didn't have a hack saw blade, so I used an old stereo head unit removal tool (bent) to hold up the fuel pump rod while installing.  Had to throw a breaker bar on the crank to slowly rotate the engine and get enough clearance.  Was concerned I didn't pull the belt off of the seawater pump while doing this, then realized everything is going clockwise (looking front to back) so no problems.  Getting some new ethanol free this afternoon to dilute the old stuff in the gas tank, I'll also prefill the fuel/water separator before spinning that back on.

The new trailer winch strap is on.  I hooked it to a steel bar on the trailer and tried to cinch it up tight on the spool.  Hopefully we don't find a bunch of slack when we get to the ramp.  Any tips/techniques I should employ beyond what I've done?

The nipple for the fuel pump sight tube on the front of my Qjet has green stuff inside, and the old sight tube was pretty grody.  I cleaned up the outside of it and have a new sight tube to throw on there.  If I were to remove that nipple, would I be screwing up anything internally?  I.e. any check balls or other components that would shift if it were removed?  Then again, if the sight tube isn't supposed to fill unless there is a fuel pump issue, is it even worth worrying about?