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Blue Seas not charging either battery


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The blue seas diagram is not "wrong", thats evident in the fact that when you turn the switch and fire up the boat, no magic blue smoke is let out and both banks receive a charge. However, with experience and practical applications, alternative ways to configure the systems, have been developed. These prevents the 1-size-fits-all diagram from being used on all installs. No need for an ACR interrupt relay or pulling the ACR control ground lead when a charger is part of the scheme. We can also, in some cases, eliminate the need for extra circuit protection on the ACR's A & B cables.    

Edited by MLA
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16 minutes ago, MLA said:

We can also, in some cases, eliminate the need for extra circuit protection on the ACR's A & B cables.    

Aside from convenience is there a valid standard for eliminating the fusing (I'm figuring there must be some written OK for this practice given that I've never seen the leads from perko type switch to batteries fused either)?  Cars use a fusable link but I've never seen than in any of my boats.

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Distance between the ACR and where the cables terminate. I think both the ABYC and NMMA have suggestions regarding cable distance and when/where circuit protection should be used. If they are short, its not needed. 

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  • 2 months later...

Need advice from anyone familiar with stock battery wiring on a 2001 Sunsetter VLX. I want to add a Blue Seas ACR but WITHOUT the Dual Circuit Battery Switch (so basically duplicating the "Quick Installation Diagram" in the Bluesea link above).

My primary question is: where does the Accessory load connect to my existing single battery in a stock set-up?  The positive battery cable goes direct to the Starter (with no other wiring involved) and the accessories appear to be tied in between the Starter and the Alternator.  Where in this existing circuit do I "insert" the ACR and second battery? Or will this require wire relocation?

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  • 2 years later...

Hi, I am about to do this set up as well.  What Gauge cable is needed on the non labled sections? The others all say 10 gauge but specifically from the battery (Red) switch to the posotive terminal? 

 

Also, OLD JEEP - if you see this, I love in Chanhassen and would love to get your contact information for advice or even pay for some help :) 

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There can always be variables that mean one persons setup may not work for another. Cable gauge is a calculation if length and potential amperage draw. In a switch/ACR setup, you have 3 basic areas of different amperage draw. Engine cranking, alternator output and house draws. 

While not an exact answer to your question, its ammo you need to make your calculations based on your specific design. 

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If you're going with a dual bank onboard charger, it would be important to wire it so that the ACR is isolated from the charging circuits.  There are several ways to do this, but here is what I did. 

Blue-Seas-2-1-Wiring-Diagram-Rev-2-BQ.pn

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/5/2017 at 1:16 PM, oldjeep said:

Looks correct to me, except that your diagram is not showing a ground wire for the ACR

 

image_170181.jpg

This diagram is a great sanity check for me as I have seen the same setup but drawn several different ways.  I need to add a kicker motor into this equation - would you just piggy back the kicker motor leads on to the same studs as the main engine leads - would anyone know by chance - any help would be MUCH appreciated!

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