2017 Fman LSV build - Larson Marine

[isellacuras]

I had to raise my qbomb box about 5" to move it to the starboard side and back.  I used pieces of trex deck stacked on top of each other to create the amount of space needed to get the box back and right, far enough to clear the ballast hoses. Different box, different boat so your set up may be quite different. By the looks of the picture, you have the room to go right. Will that create enough room to go back?  I did have to move my kick panel about 1 1/2" out to fit properly. 

[hethj7]

Going right I get into the ballast hoses quicker and don't get quite as deep.  I think I am going to take 3" of the depth of the box off.  That will free up a lot of space and I will double check my measurements, but I think it will put the volume in a better spot for the RF sub.  Sorry for filling this thread up with my issues.  Let's see what fman does and I can finish out and post up elsewhere.  

[IXFE]

9 hours ago, hethj7 said:

All details of your install would be appreciated.  I got mine tore apart and am currently in that "what did I get myself into stage?"  

 

I am am not sure how to modify things to push it back another inch or so to keep a new kick panel behind the fiberglass edge.  

 

 

 

You need to get that box up off the floor in order to push it back and to the right.  As you correctly pointed out, you can't fit a kick panel there where you have it.  Even if you could push it straight back, it would look weird with the sub so far over to the left.  So you want to push it right to center it more also.  If you raise it up you will be able to clear a few more inches of the hoses coming up through the floor.  You will also be able to clear the hull sloping up on the right.  

Look what I did with my Qbomb last year.  I mounted 2x4 blocks of pressure treated wood.  I put layers of Dynamat on BOTH sides of the blocks before I screwed them in to avoid any rattling.  Notice also that I don't have a block on the back right corner.  That's because that side is propped up by the hull elevation at that back right corner (I also wrapped that corner in Dynamat).  Also notice that I removed those silly plastic blocks from the floor that your kick panel was mounted to.  You won't be using those anymore.  Throw them away.  Once your sub is in place you can just mount the kickpanel directly to it with shallow screws.  They will disappear into the carpet.  I held it all in place with metal brackets in the front and a small "L" bracket at the back right corner (had to bend it move of a "V" bracket")

 

 

[Stevo]

^^^ what he said.

i had some extra trex around and used that to get mine up of the floor.

Edited March 27, 2017 by Stevo

[Fman]

10 hours ago, IXFE said:

You need to get that box up off the floor in order to push it back and to the right.  As you correctly pointed out, you can't fit a kick panel there where you have it.  Even if you could push it straight back, it would look weird with the sub so far over to the left.  So you want to push it right to center it more also.  If you raise it up you will be able to clear a few more inches of the hoses coming up through the floor.  You will also be able to clear the hull sloping up on the right.  

Look what I did with my Qbomb last year.  I mounted 2x4 blocks of pressure treated wood.  I put layers of Dynamat on BOTH sides of the blocks before I screwed them in to avoid any rattling.  Notice also that I don't have a block on the back right corner.  That's because that side is propped up by the hull elevation at that back right corner (I also wrapped that corner in Dynamat).  Also notice that I removed those silly plastic blocks from the floor that your kick panel was mounted to.  You won't be using those anymore.  Throw them away.  Once your sub is in place you can just mount the kickpanel directly to it with shallow screws.  They will disappear into the carpet.  I held it all in place with metal brackets in the front and a small "L" bracket at the back right corner (had to bend it move of a "V" bracket")

 

 

This is what my plan is... I do have the walkway heater to contend with so I need to leave a little more space on the left side for the heater tube to have a place to be stowed.  Funny thing is I also have leftover trex from a deck we replaced on our rental property so I can definitely make use of that....great idea!

@hethj7

Don't be afraid to push that box back against those ballast hoses and utilize every inch of depth.  You should be able to move those kick panel brackets out and make enough space for that box without cutting the back off.

[Ronnie]

Sorry, the middle pic is rotated 90 deg.

'16 23LSV, sub box on a raised platform with HDPE feet. Footrest goes back to original position.

 

[hethj7]

Well, everything you all say is what I had planned to do.  It will be next weekend now but I will take a better look at what the clashes are.  It just seems like I am a long ways from where I need to but you all are convincing me I can get there   

@Fman - have you test fit yours at all yet?  

@Ronnie - easy with no heater

[Fman]

I am hoping tomorrow I can grab a few hours and finish the box install.  Also for anyone interested in the amp rack dimensions see attached pic.  Malibu also changed the mounting block locations from my 2015.  Red indicates approx where the blocks are now located.  I was still able to grab 3 screws off the horizontal block but would add another 6" length to also capture the vertical block.

[hethj7]

Are the mounting blocks carpeted?  I just had my amp rack off off (wiring up the WS420) and don't recall seeing them.  I thought it was bit odd but lined the rack back up as close to where it was and drove the screws back in.  Nothing poking out of my gel coat so I guess I did okay.  

 

 

[Fman]

Yes they are carpeted, easily found outlining the carpet.  I use 2" screws which seems to be a good safe length.  I would be lying if I did not peak over the side of the boat after I mounted the rack.  Always a good feeling not seeing a screw sticking out the side of the boat

[Slurpee]

Sink some anchor bolts into the ribs and then you can just hang your amp board and secure it with wing nuts. Makes it a lot easier to take on and off to. I used two on the left side. One on the bottom right and one top center. 

[ConnollyCrew]

On 3/26/2017 at 7:09 PM, hethj7 said:

Going right I get into the ballast hoses quicker and don't get quite as deep.  I think I am going to take 3" of the depth of the box off.  That will free up a lot of space and I will double check my measurements, but I think it will put the volume in a better spot for the RF sub.  Sorry for filling this thread up with my issues.  Let's see what fman does and I can finish out and post up elsewhere.  

Get 90 degree elbows for your vent hose to connect to thru hulls, will give you the space needed. (Should). 

This  is what we did to mine to get the ported box in. 

[wbama387]

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. I may do the same.

[Chattwake]

Fman, your boat is awesome looking!  Love the 23.

 

I've got a 17 23 LSV on order.  Spray date April 27.  Can't wait to get it!

Edited March 28, 2017 by Chattwake

[Fman]

Thanks for all the great feedback on our LSV, I am really excited about this boat!  I finished the stereo today so she is officially done!  The garage test is a 10+ I REALLY like the way these EXILE Surf 9's are sounding with the current wiring and power configuration.  I will need some real world water time behind the boat to get a full taste of them.  My son is 14 and he gave me the thumbs up today!  The 12" sub in the Sonic box is pounding and sounding great...  that is a great box for this sub!  I have attached some pics of my recent progress.  I was also able to get the windows tinted 18%, if you live in the Sacramento area Rick at Island Glass is awesome, he has a mobile service at a reasonable price and uses a high end carbon tint.  His number is 530-321-3611.

I did use trex 2x4's for my base along with a rubber gator grip-ish material I had leftover from years ago, it worked great on the bottom of the trex base.  There is plenty of room even with a heater to fit the Sonic box, I did move the kick panel outward 3-4" which required trimming the carpet and there is plenty of leg room even with the kick panel moved out.  I placed the sub box to give me enough room on each side for 3 heater pull outs.  I was also able to match the Malibu power button for my on/off stereo which I think turned out good (thanks Shawn for the link).

And a big thanks to @Shawndoggy, @IXFEBrian, and Bill at Exile for helping me on some questions.  After two years I needed a little bit of a refresher and these guys are always a great resource.

 

 

Edited March 29, 2017 by Fman

[ahopkins22LSV]

So wiring up that button was easy? How did you drill through the vinyl on the dash?

[hethj7]

Turned out awesome!

[wbama387]

7 hours ago, Fman said:

Thanks for all the great feedback on our LSV, I am really excited about this boat!  I finished the stereo today so she is officially done!  The garage test is a 10+ I REALLY like the way these EXILE Surf 9's are sounding with the current wiring and power configuration.  I will need some real world water time behind the boat to get a full taste of them.  My son is 14 and he gave me the thumbs up today!  The 12" sub in the Sonic box is pounding and sounding great...  that is a great box for this sub!  I have attached some pics of my recent progress.  I was also able to get the windows tinted 18%, if you live in the Sacramento area Rick at Island Glass is awesome, he has a mobile service at a reasonable price and uses a high end carbon tint.  His number is 530-321-3611.

I did use trex 2x4's for my base along with a rubber gator grip-ish material I had leftover from years ago, it worked great on the bottom of the trex base.  There is plenty of room even with a heater to fit the Sonic box, I did move the kick panel outward 3-4" which required trimming the carpet and there is plenty of leg room even with the kick panel moved out.  I placed the sub box to give me enough room on each side for 3 heater pull outs.  I was also able to match the Malibu power button for my on/off stereo which I think turned out good (thanks Shawn for the link).

And a big thanks to @Shawndoggy, Brian, and Bill at Exile for helping me on some questions.  After two years I needed a little bit of a refresher and these guys are always a great resource.

 

 

Does your boat have the factory 3 port heater?

[Fman]

5 hours ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

So wiring up that button was easy? How did you drill through the vinyl on the dash?

I Pre drilled with a small bit then used a step bit.  It drilled through with no problems.  Wiring was much easier with the adaptor that connects onto the back of the button.

[Fman]

2 hours ago, wbama387 said:

Does your boat have the factory 3 port heater?

Yes one pullout in walkway and two I put in the kick panel.  And all of those pullouts just stow in the cavity next to sub.  The two on kick panel will just about reach the back of the boat.

Edited March 29, 2017 by Fman

[IXFE]

On 3/27/2017 at 11:22 PM, Slurpee said:

Sink some anchor bolts into the ribs and then you can just hang your amp board and secure it with wing nuts. Makes it a lot easier to take on and off to. I used two on the left side. One on the bottom right and one top center. 

Yes!  I have used this method on my last two builds.  On my first build I used screws and didn't realize that a couple of them hadn't gone deep enough into the blocks.  About halfway through the season I found my amp board had fallen off and slid down to the bottom of the observer's compartment.  @shawndoggy may even recall a frantic phone call me from that night! He scolded me for not using hanger bolts on that first build.  I've used them ever since, and they actually make life easier, provided you successfully align the bolts to the holes on the amp board (hint: make the holes plenty big).  

[Fffrank]

On 3/17/2017 at 0:33 AM, IXFE said:

 

@shawndoggywill remember that I called him both times for help. He provided the following diagram that you will surely remember. It's been posted more than once.  

 

If you do this with those xm30.2 amps & the Surf 9's, you will be VERY HAPPY with the sound.  It's midbass like I've never heard from a tower speaker.  

 

 

 

Are you guys running your tower speakers in mono?

[wbama387]

On 3/17/2017 at 0:33 AM, IXFE said:

Yes. G4 is prewired. But you will have trouble getting another run of wire up there like you've done on past builds. The speaker wire is in that thick black sheath on the port side.  The starboard side has the LED wires running up it. As you can see, there's no room to get another run of wire in there (note where the channel gets narrow), and I wasn't willing to cut that sheath open in hopes of getting more in there. Also notice the rubber collar at the bottom of the pic. The only way to get wire in there would be to cut that rubber collar.  Problem is that it's fused to the rubber cord running straight up to the top.  It's a pulley system designed to manage the movement of the speaker wire from as you raise and lower the tower.  I am telling you, the engineering inside this tower is CRAZY!!  I recommend you don't mess with it.

So instead of running more speaker wire, you need to pop the top of the tower off and change the wiring to serial (it's parallel from the factory).  Here are few pics of this on my 2015 (with factory Rev8's).  I did it again on my 2016 which was a stereo delete boat, but I didn't take pics (same wiring in the tower). 

 

@shawndoggywill remember that I called him both times for help. He provided the following diagram that you will surely remember. It's been posted more than once.  

 

If you do this with those xm30.2 amps & the Surf 9's, you will be VERY HAPPY with the sound.  It's midbass like I've never heard from a tower speaker.  

 

 

 

Do you know where the speaker wires can be found when they come out of the tower? I am working on my system now and could now find them near the amp board.

Thanks.

[shawndoggy]

1 hour ago, Fffrank said:

Are you guys running your tower speakers in mono?

(IMHO) You won't notice a difference if you do run mono, but in @Fman's and @IXFE's setups, I believe that they're still stereo.  There's just a "right amp" for the right two tower speakers and a "left amp" for the left pair.

[shawndoggy]

1 hour ago, IXFE said:

Yes!  I have used this method on my last two builds.  On my first build I used screws and didn't realize that a couple of them hadn't gone deep enough into the blocks.  About halfway through the season I found my amp board had fallen off and slid down to the bottom of the observer's compartment.  @shawndoggy may even recall a frantic phone call me from that night! He scolded me for not using hanger bolts on that first build.  I've used them ever since, and they actually make life easier, provided you successfully align the bolts to the holes on the amp board (hint: make the holes plenty big).  

 

c'mon @IXFE I never scold!

(wait, did I just scold you about you saying I scold... ruh roh).

And yeah aligning the holes is the tricky (ish) part.  That's why fender washers were invented (as malibu can confirm if you've ever taken trim panels or seat backs off and seen their "holes"!).