Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

neutral lockout broken


Recommended Posts

13 hours ago, Borny said:

Same thing happened to me this morning.  I've got 2011 Sunscape.  Was barefooting and when my driver pulled back on throttle when I dropped, it slipped into reverse and he nearly flipped the boat.  How do I remove the button and button spring?   I couldn't figure it out, afraid I'd break something else and make it worse.

You can use a really thin feeler gauge - slide between the button and knob.  There are 2 locking tabs on the button that you need to release

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • 9 months later...

*Why does this forum not allow direct uploading of images? I thought embedding photos was a thing of the past....*

 

I came across this thread while googling "malibu wakesetter gear shift problem". Ultimately it helped me fix the problem. 

After having the E clip brake in half that holds the neutral lockout rod in place on our maiden voyage this year ( go figure) I did some investigating and wanted to shed some light on how to fix this problem. Now it seems the design of this lockout rod is not all that great if it's likely or even possible for it to fail under normal operation. Our 2013 LSV has 450 hours on it and the E clip just gave out at random. It's pretty dangerous not having a neutral lockout, which was nothing I had ever thought about before. 

 

First off, take out the four screws holding the throttle assembly to the boat. Unplug both plugs to remove completely. You don't have to remove the assembly but it makes it easier and its easy to do. 

 

IMG-2296.jpg

From here the button needs removed. I simply grabbed the rod with pliers and pushed it up. I think I broke one of the tabs that holds the button on but it still works fine. Others have described how to do this as well. In the pic you can see what you're dealing with and decide how to tackle it. 

IMG-2271.jpg

Next remove the four small screws and remove the top and middle section of the knob. You can see half a E clip in this pic. 


IMG-2273.jpg

This is what you're left with. The E clip you see here is what I replaced. It holds down the spring which holds up the rod to keep the throttle locked. I picked up a 1/8" E clip locally (might want more than one).

Take some needle nose pliers, push the spring down and insert the clip into the grove. Personally i think this is a poor design.  A rod with a shelf machined into it would never brake, or a welded on washer. Heck even jb weld would be better. If it broke once it will brake again. 

IMG-2297.jpg

 

All in all very simple fix. I'll admit when trying to get the E clip on I accidentally flung the spring up and could not find it. I found a spring from a pen worked perfect. 

Link to comment
2 hours ago, yotaisgame said:

*Why does this forum not allow direct uploading of images? I thought embedding photos was a thing of the past....*

Great post!  On this question, see all the advertising banners on this page?  (Answer: nope)

This site doesn't sell advertising in order to remain independent.  Contributors to the site can post pictures.  Storage and networking for a site costs money.  Most regulars here save more $ in a year via discounts and advice than the site fees cost.

Join up!  It's worth it.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment

Little adverting never hurt anyone. Been apart of plenty of forums with advertising and I never notice it. I rarely come on here. Most the time its to help future problems for people. I had a great thread about the main power button with pics but that was back when Photobucket was a thing. Pics are long gone now.. 

Link to comment
  • 10 months later...
On 5/12/2020 at 3:21 PM, yotaisgame said:

*Why does this forum not allow direct uploading of images? I thought embedding photos was a thing of the past....*

 

I came across this thread while googling "malibu wakesetter gear shift problem". Ultimately it helped me fix the problem. 

After having the E clip brake in half that holds the neutral lockout rod in place on our maiden voyage this year ( go figure) I did some investigating and wanted to shed some light on how to fix this problem. Now it seems the design of this lockout rod is not all that great if it's likely or even possible for it to fail under normal operation. Our 2013 LSV has 450 hours on it and the E clip just gave out at random. It's pretty dangerous not having a neutral lockout, which was nothing I had ever thought about before. 

 

First off, take out the four screws holding the throttle assembly to the boat. Unplug both plugs to remove completely. You don't have to remove the assembly but it makes it easier and its easy to do. 

 

IMG-2296.jpg

From here the button needs removed. I simply grabbed the rod with pliers and pushed it up. I think I broke one of the tabs that holds the button on but it still works fine. Others have described how to do this as well. In the pic you can see what you're dealing with and decide how to tackle it. 

IMG-2271.jpg

Next remove the four small screws and remove the top and middle section of the knob. You can see half a E clip in this pic. 


IMG-2273.jpg

This is what you're left with. The E clip you see here is what I replaced. It holds down the spring which holds up the rod to keep the throttle locked. I picked up a 1/8" E clip locally (might want more than one).

Take some needle nose pliers, push the spring down and insert the clip into the grove. Personally i think this is a poor design.  A rod with a shelf machined into it would never brake, or a welded on washer. Heck even jb weld would be better. If it broke once it will brake again. 

IMG-2297.jpg

 

All in all very simple fix. I'll admit when trying to get the E clip on I accidentally flung the spring up and could not find it. I found a spring from a pen worked perfect. 

we are having a heck of a time getting the button off.  Everything we tried so far is chipping up the cheap fake metal around the button :(

 

Link to comment

If anyone is out there and can help! We need to get the button off the shifter.  Have stuck things on the side to try prying...won't come up.  Have tried pushing rod up NO luck...Anyone?

Link to comment
16 minutes ago, Lovetoski said:

If anyone is out there and can help! We need to get the button off the shifter.  Have stuck things on the side to try prying...won't come up.  Have tried pushing rod up NO luck...Anyone?

Super thin / flexible spark plug gap gauge is what I use.  Not sure how else you can release it.

Link to comment
On 8/2/2019 at 7:24 AM, oldjeep said:

You can use a really thin feeler gauge - slide between the button and knob.  There are 2 locking tabs on the button that you need to release

This photo from @oldjeep might help.  spacer.png

Link to comment
  • 1 year later...
On 5/12/2020 at 3:21 PM, yotaisgame said:

*Why does this forum not allow direct uploading of images? I thought embedding photos was a thing of the past....*

 

I came across this thread while googling "malibu wakesetter gear shift problem". Ultimately it helped me fix the problem. 

After having the E clip brake in half that holds the neutral lockout rod in place on our maiden voyage this year ( go figure) I did some investigating and wanted to shed some light on how to fix this problem. Now it seems the design of this lockout rod is not all that great if it's likely or even possible for it to fail under normal operation. Our 2013 LSV has 450 hours on it and the E clip just gave out at random. It's pretty dangerous not having a neutral lockout, which was nothing I had ever thought about before. 

 

First off, take out the four screws holding the throttle assembly to the boat. Unplug both plugs to remove completely. You don't have to remove the assembly but it makes it easier and its easy to do. 

 

IMG-2296.jpg

From here the button needs removed. I simply grabbed the rod with pliers and pushed it up. I think I broke one of the tabs that holds the button on but it still works fine. Others have described how to do this as well. In the pic you can see what you're dealing with and decide how to tackle it. 

IMG-2271.jpg

Next remove the four small screws and remove the top and middle section of the knob. You can see half a E clip in this pic. 


IMG-2273.jpg

This is what you're left with. The E clip you see here is what I replaced. It holds down the spring which holds up the rod to keep the throttle locked. I picked up a 1/8" E clip locally (might want more than one).

Take some needle nose pliers, push the spring down and insert the clip into the grove. Personally i think this is a poor design.  A rod with a shelf machined into it would never brake, or a welded on washer. Heck even jb weld would be better. If it broke once it will brake again. 

IMG-2297.jpg

 

All in all very simple fix. I'll admit when trying to get the E clip on I accidentally flung the spring up and could not find it. I found a spring from a pen worked perfect. 

First of all I want to thank the awesome users of this forum for providing this content. My neutral lockout broke yesterday and it didn’t take me long to find this thread before wanting to crack and rip apart the knob of my throttle arm to get to the e-clip. My question is— I also have a second throttle body that has a faulty TPS. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement TPS? (503-06656) or another one that will work? Many thanks! 
 

Also, is there only “one way” that the back plate goes back on ? I’m curious if I’m going to break anything when putting it back on… it feels tight. 
 

Ryan

Link to comment

For those of you who have the newer Livorsi flat faced throttle here is the fix for a broken lock out. (For those out of warranty or not wanting to wait for the replacement to show up )

Removal from boat is 1-T-20 torx set screw to remove cover plate and 4 Phillips screws to remove the unit. Unplug the 1 set of wires(or 2 if u have a thruster)

remove the head of the throttle and slide the neutral lock out tab off the top. 
remove the broken wire head from the Slide tab.

I think this unit is very well engineered and has very tight tolerances. This one broke probably because the wire is bent at a tight 70’ degrees may have been weakened in the process.

The replacement wire i used was .080 stainless, but the OEM wire was .076 I figured the slightly larger diameter would help.

bend the ends to match the length and curvature in the handle channel and reassemble.

it’s a little tricky to get the pin positioned properly with the thruster wire but with patience it’s not too bad

DDF2CFF7-DF02-45BD-BC30-F07F52E09486.jpeg

5DACE215-4A52-447F-A66E-54AC2B95AF49.jpeg

621BEB12-AE75-4381-8A76-784753437A7D.jpeg

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...