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Ecoboost Owners


mrnate450r

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44 minutes ago, RyanB said:

Chrysler matched the competition in MY 2016.  They are 5/60 as well.

http://blog.caranddriver.com/chrysler-reduces-2016-powertrain-warranties-by-40000-miles/

2017 is 5/100

http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/warranty/

eh, scratch that. Looks like only the eco diesel is 100k.

of course my 2009 is still lifetime on the powertrain;)

Edited by oldjeep
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On 2/5/2017 at 10:14 AM, nyryan2001 said:

2017 F150 10-Speed 3.5 Eco 3.55 gears continues to be the strongest towing 1/2ton.  Leaves a little work to be done with downhill engine braking... but otherwise very very strong performance.

 

 

"Continues" to be the strongest?  How so?

The 1500 hemi bested the Ford by almost 20 seconds up the hill, fewer brake applications down, and was knocked by (EDIT: Nathan) for its rotary shifter (gave 17 points subjective) and Andre gave the Ford 22 points subjective, and despite that, the Ram's final score was the EXACT same as the Ford.  The ONLY objective area Ford had better numbers was fuel economy at .5 mpg difference.  The Hemi was so much stronger up the hill it made up for that.  And that's WITHOUT any boost.  If we're using the Ike Gauntlet to be the measuring stick, it's just patently incorrect to say that the F-150 "continues to be the strongest towing halfton".  

 

Edited by 85 Barefoot
  • Like 2
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I thought the 6.2 was the fastest 1500 up Ike?

And, isn't it kind of silly to argue about seconds (or even minutes) on a grade that the VAST majority will never tow?  IMO, the 3 main competitors in the 1500 market are all very good, hard to go wrong with any of them.  But I guess we have to differentiate somehow.  (I'm a MOPAR guy by the way).

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21 minutes ago, RyanB said:

I thought the 6.2 was the fastest 1500 up Ike?

And, isn't it kind of silly to argue about seconds (or even minutes) on a grade that the VAST majority will never tow?  IMO, the 3 main competitors in the 1500 market are all very good, hard to go wrong with any of them.  But I guess we have to differentiate somehow.  (I'm a MOPAR guy by the way).

you're right.  beat ram by 5 seconds.  and yes, its totally silly.  But have to respond to inaccuracies, so now we've established the in fact the ford is not THE strongest, appears 3rd "strongest".  That's not a knock on the Ford, its very nice and more than capable.  

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This is some interesting conversation.  Our corporate leasing company is only allowing us to choose from GM products or Ford.  Cost of ownership for Dodge has been historically cost prohibitive.  That is over a lifetime of tens of thousands of units tracked over the life of the vehicle or lease.

 

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3 hours ago, 85 Barefoot said:

you're right.  beat ram by 5 seconds.  and yes, its totally silly.  But have to respond to inaccuracies, so now we've established the in fact the ford is not THE strongest, appears 3rd "strongest".  That's not a knock on the Ford, its very nice and more than capable.  

You're missing some details. Notice the asterisk by the Hemi review...? One of their testing parameters for time up the hill is they're supposed to stay at the posted speed of 60mph all the way up the hill- hence the 8:00min benchmark. In the Hemi test (4x2, BTW) they specifically mention the timing was inaccurate because they "accidentally" exceeded the speed limit. The reviewer in the Ford test says he could have driven much faster too. I'm sure all 1/2s could.

http://www.tfltruck.com/2016-ike-gauntlet-highway-mpg/

 

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3 hours ago, IdahoAxis said:

You're missing some details. Notice the asterisk by the Hemi review...? One of their testing parameters for time up the hill is they're supposed to stay at the posted speed of 60mph all the way up the hill- hence the 8:00min benchmark. In the Hemi test (4x2, BTW) they specifically mention the timing was inaccurate because they "accidentally" exceeded the speed limit. The reviewer in the Ford test says he could have driven much faster too. I'm sure all 1/2s could.

http://www.tfltruck.com/2016-ike-gauntlet-highway-mpg/

 

One thing to note on the tests is that the Chevy HD only needed two "brakes" on the descent pulling 21K+ lbs.  One of the features I love on my 2016 HD is the exhaust brake.  It truly is a fantastic feature when loaded on big descents.  

Edited by jjackkrash
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  • 3 weeks later...

Boz / others,

do do you think this catch can is a near requirement for 3.5L Eco longevity ?

fairly compelling argument for one.  I don't know enough to know the difference... do the valves really get that dirty with direct injection?  Is that really a problem?

 

 

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My bet is that stock will be ok for me. I have 78k on a 2012. As far as I can tell my valves are clean and happy.  Truck runs great. New spark plugs and plug boots a few months ago really made a difference. 

I plan to trade for a 2019. Main reason for putting the trade off is the price of a new one. Second reason is I read somewhere that Ford was ditching sync in 2019. Sync is annoying.  Most of my use is just daily commuting. Not running Baja or pulling ten large up Pikes Peak at WOT. Third reason is I read somewhere that Ford engineers design each part to last on average 10 years. So I will bail before then.

But the reality is this truck has been my favorite of the 9 trucks that came before it and it is way more truck than I need 90% of the time. 

 If this was my last truck and I planned to put 250k of hard use on it, then maybe I would look into the can. 

 

Ok, not being a mechanic let me ask:   Given modern diesel engines are direct injected and turboed, do they have the can?

 

Edited by Bozboat
added a question
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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/26/2017 at 1:15 PM, nyryan2001 said:

Boz / others,

do do you think this catch can is a near requirement for 3.5L Eco longevity ?

fairly compelling argument for one.  I don't know enough to know the difference... do the valves really get that dirty with direct injection?  Is that really a problem?

 

 

I just had to have the vacuum lines and hubs replaced on my '15 F150 EB at 20k.  The vacuum lines go bad and lose the vacuum required to keeps the front hubs disengaged.  The left hub was starting to make contact and grind so they replaced both hubs to the "new style" assembly.  I am guessing the hubs were slightly changed with the '15 refresh and maybe have been redesigned for the '17 model year??

Other than that and terrible service departments at the local dealers I have really enjoyed my F150.  I have owned Chevy, Nissan, and Toyota 1/2 tons and the EB tows, by far, the best of the group. 

 

The gen 2 EB has dual fuel management systems, DI and port injection.  I would assume that this was changed at least party to decrease the valve carbon build up. 

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The 15's(and maybe 16's) have hub vacuum line issues.  I just had to have my front hub assemblies replaced at 20k miles due to grinding from loss of vacuum pressure.  Shop foreman said that this is a known issue and the hubs have been redesigned.  

Aside from that and terrible service departments at my local dealerships I really like my F150 EB. I have owned GM, Nissan and Toyota 1/2 tons and the EB pulls, by far, the best of the group. 

 

 

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The problem I seem to continue to have is terrible service departments filled with folks that have no idea what they were doing. Clueless and/or don't care.

i'll never forget 3 Chevy dealerships in the Virginia Beach area could not figure out and solve why a 5.3L fan clutch would not kick up into high gear and cool things down ... and would overheat.  That was just too big of a problem for Chevy to solve.  Complete garbage.

 

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1 hour ago, nyryan2001 said:

The problem I seem to continue to have is terrible service departments filled with folks that have no idea what they were doing. Clueless and/or don't care.

i'll never forget 3 Chevy dealerships in the Virginia Beach area could not figure out and solve why a 5.3L fan clutch would not kick up into high gear and cool things down ... and would overheat.  That was just too big of a problem for Chevy to solve.  Complete garbage.

 

I would rather have three root canals than go to any dealer service department.  The brand doesn't seem to make any difference. 

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21 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

I would rather have three root canals than go to any dealer service department.  The brand doesn't seem to make any difference. 

Not much of a choice when you are having warranty work done.

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Let's just say we will never buy any new Chrysler vehicles locally. Horrible service department, never phoning back. They put the headlights in backwards after frying most of modules and said they should be good. So while waiting for them to fix their mistakes we walked across the street and bought a Toyota. Just to rub things in, I wish the Toyota sales guy would have went and got the jeep.... ;)

Edited by Cole2001
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The service department at the local Dodge dealer was fantastic for many, many years.  Then they went through some hard times with a lot of turnover.  They seem to be back on the right track. There are two Chevy dealers that I have taken my Yukon to that are both pretty good.

 

Boat or car, a good service department can make or break the ownership experience.

  • Like 1
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I know they are a black sheep, but my wife drives a Nissan (Armada). The local guys have been great, especially since we didn't buy the vehicle there. She had an issue (which she caused) with the shifter one evening leaving work, on a Friday, and the service manager stayed and waited for her, last guy in the shop. Fixed the problem and no charge, tough to beat. Our local Ford dealership back when we had the Expy, couldn't figure out or couldn't be bothered to align the vehicle after the IRS differential bearings needed replaced (at 25k). After several visits and no resolve, we took it to a local indy and his statement, "That rear end was so out of alignment a blind guy with a broken yard stick could have done better." I had the before an after reports showing how bad it was, took them to the dealership and they were not interested. Then again my opening statement of, "Your incompetence cost me $100" could have turned them off a bit.

So I don't think it matters the brand, there are bad ones everywhere.

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On 2/26/2017 at 6:15 PM, nyryan2001 said:

Boz / others,

do do you think this catch can is a near requirement for 3.5L Eco longevity ?

fairly compelling argument for one.  I don't know enough to know the difference... do the valves really get that dirty with direct injection?  Is that really a problem?

Every DI motor is different.  Because fuel isn't hitting the valves, any oil that gets on them gets cooked on.  The oil "vapor" management design of the engine is key to whether it will/will not have an issue.  First generation DI motors (especially from the Germans) are some of the worst for this.  I have a catch can on my BMW for this very reason - it doesn't catch a lot but enough to make it worthwhile.  BMW got so bad they actually released a walnut blasting device to clean the valves!  

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28 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

Every DI motor is different.  Because fuel isn't hitting the valves, any oil that gets on them gets cooked on.  The oil "vapor" management design of the engine is key to whether it will/will not have an issue.  First generation DI motors (especially from the Germans) are some of the worst for this.  I have a catch can on my BMW for this very reason - it doesn't catch a lot but enough to make it worthwhile.  BMW got so bad they actually released a walnut blasting device to clean the valves!  

How big a deal is cleaning the valves?  My current boat has GDI, and this was the only issue that gave me pause.  Like a $1k issue every five years, for example, or bigger deal?  

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1 hour ago, jjackkrash said:

How big a deal is cleaning the valves?  My current boat has GDI, and this was the only issue that gave me pause.  Like a $1k issue every five years, for example, or bigger deal?  

Depends on the engine design.  For my BMW, it requires removal of the intake manifold and either doing it the manual way or via the walnut blasting setup.  I will be doing mine in the next couple of months as my intake manifold gasket is leaking, so I might as well do it while I'm there replacing the manifold (these manifolds are known to crack, so I'd rather do it right the first time)...BMW's are leaky suckers.  Manually with carb cleaner and a brushes, especially on a DOHC motor, can just suck.  That said, $1000 for the job every 5 years is probably about right is paying someone to do it - at least by a guess based on the work involved and what dealers tend to charge.

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