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Installing Adjustable Height Drivers Seat


Fman

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You know I will. I love projects that require custom one off parts. I end up makeing a few of them for friends.

i was thinking the same thing... you could even make a controller for the seat and have user presets :) hell, you could literally take the code i wrote for my power wedge controller and use it for this.

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i was thinking the same thing... you could even make a controller for the seat and have user presets :) hell, you could literally take the code i wrote for my power wedge controller and use it for this.

Now you need a rotary encoder to keep track of position. Whistling.gif

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Some time back this issue came up and around that time Harbor Freight ran a special on this floor jack for $50 plus some change for shipping.

http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-15-ton-compact-aluminum-racing-jack-68053-html-7814.html

I bought the jack for the specific purpose to modify it to lift the seat for when my wife drives. Granted it is not electric but it has plenty of capacity and since it is fabricated from AL it won't rust.

My issue is time and this is not on the priority list right now.

-Dave

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Now you need a rotary encoder to keep track of position. Whistling.gif

im not afraid of those anymore. :) been fooling around with those a bit. though, i think a simple 300 degree potentiometer would be best still :)

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im not afraid of those anymore. :) been fooling around with those a bit. though, i think a simple 300 degree potentiometer would be best still :)

You would need a multiple rotation encoder for this job since that worm gear will rotate probably 20 or so times from top to bottom. The pot wouldn't allow you to go multiple turns would it?

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You would need a multiple rotation encoder for this job since that worm gear will rotate probably 20 or so times from top to bottom. The pot wouldn't allow you to go multiple turns would it?

just put it on the pivot point of the scissor. that shouldn't rotate more then 300 degrees or so. and you'd never lose calibration. if you lost power when the seat was halfway up you would have to reset it to the 'home' position. i think. :)

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just put it on the pivot point of the scissor. that shouldn't rotate more then 300 degrees or so. and you'd never lose calibration. if you lost power when the seat was halfway up you would have to reset it to the 'home' position. i think. :)

That would probably work. Thumbup.gif

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Received a call from Garelick today, look for the adjustable seat on the 2013 Malibus. Starting in July Malibu will be ordering the electric adjustable seat and installing them on there boats. The current electric seat basin Supra is using is being sold exclusively to Skiers Choice and the price is over $2k. It will be interesting to see what the upgrade price is on the 2013 models for the electric seat adjuster.

If anyone is interested in adding this upgrade, She recommended waiting until after July because it will most likely be a direct bolt on to the Malbu or much easier to adapt than the Supra model.

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Received a call from Garelick today, look for the adjustable seat on the 2013 Malibus. Starting in July Malibu will be ordering the electric adjustable seat and installing them on there boats. The current electric seat basin Supra is using is being sold exclusively to Skiers Choice and the price is over $2k. It will be interesting to see what the upgrade price is on the 2013 models for the electric seat adjuster.

If anyone is interested in adding this upgrade, She recommended waiting until after July because it will most likely be a direct bolt on to the Malbu or much easier to adapt than the Supra model.

Will it still be a 2k option?

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Those bass boat style hydraulic adjusters are slick, cheap, and effective. Grab the handle and let the seat come to you or put a little force on it and push it down. Not sure why you'd want to make something more expensive and complicated when the cheap and simple works as good if not better.

Note, being in MN my boat is in storage so I couldn't really look at the mechanism to see how to mount it, but even if you replace the whole bottom of the seat it surely wouldn't look worse.

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those pistons are great, but the base of the seat (at least on my boat) is a trapezoidal piece that is part of the deck. i dont know how one would hide a piston that is 10" tall. the scissor lift; though more complex and expensive, would also be more stealth looking and i think would be more secure since you have a larger mounting surface area.

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Some semblance of a vinyl accordian/curtain could be fabricated to match rather easily.

As for the surface area I've had a few bass boats and other than the ones that are pull out removable they are pretty darn robust.

Not saying its ideal, but sometimes keeping things simple is a better solution.

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Some semblance of a vinyl accordian/curtain could be fabricated to match rather easily.

As for the surface area I've had a few bass boats and other than the ones that are pull out removable they are pretty darn robust.

Not saying its ideal, but sometimes keeping things simple is a better solution.

yes, i agree. but isn't the unit itself ~10" or so in it's fully compressed state??

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Those bass boat style hydraulic adjusters are slick, cheap, and effective. Grab the handle and let the seat come to you or put a little force on it and push it down. Not sure why you'd want to make something more expensive and complicated when the cheap and simple works as good if not better.

Note, being in MN my boat is in storage so I couldn't really look at the mechanism to see how to mount it, but even if you replace the whole bottom of the seat it surely wouldn't look worse.

The problem with these seat pedestals is they sit about 14" from the base, which will not work with the current Malibu base. The only option is to cut a hole into the current base and mount the pedestal unit on the sub-floor. But I still think it will sit to high up even mounted onto the sub-floor. I have to take some measurements.

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