Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew.com
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

DIY heater core


  • Please log in to reply
17 replies to this topic

#1
BaBaLoO

BaBaLoO
  • Deck Hand
  • 262 posts
  • Joined July 28, 2009
  • Boat: 2008 lsv
Does anyone have any tips or notes on how to replace the heater core for a 3 outlet heater? looking to replace it in the next couple days. thanks

#2
eyepeeler

eyepeeler
  • 'Bu Savant
  • 682 posts
  • Joined May 06, 2008
  • Boat: 2001 Response LX
Try to set up a video before you start so we can all get a good laugh and hear some @#$% words. You will know what a sardine feels like. :yahoo:

#3
BaBaLoO

BaBaLoO
  • Deck Hand
  • 262 posts
  • Joined July 28, 2009
  • Boat: 2008 lsv

Try to set up a video before you start so we can all get a good laugh and hear some @#$% words. You will know what a sardine feels like. :yahoo:



hahaha ya I bet. my main concern is if I have to take the sub panel off?

#4
Bill_AirJunky

Bill_AirJunky
  • Waaaaay Too Many
  • 9,476 posts
  • Joined August 12, 2005
  • Location: Liberty Lake, WA
  • Boat: 2005 Malibu vRide
Boat House View Boat House
The problem with a how-to of this nature is that everyone's boat is different. My sub is a PITA to find all the screws buried in the carpet. Then the whole box pulls out in one piece. Once I get that far, the core is right there.

The case itself has 2 screws on the end to remove the core. But you will most likely need to remove the whole case from under the dash to have enough room to do that. As I recall there are like 4 bolts holding the case to the dash wall. Pull the hoses, unhook the wires & pull it all out. Your wires may need to be cut, in which case you might chose to install some plugs to make them easily removable. If the hoses are too tough to remove, then cut them close to the core. Then you can work on it out from under the dash.

Be sure that your core is mounted so that the inlet/outlet hoses are on the bottom side. Then you can install some radiator flush Ts or quick release fittings in the lines in the bilge to make it easy to drain in the future.

#5
BaBaLoO

BaBaLoO
  • Deck Hand
  • 262 posts
  • Joined July 28, 2009
  • Boat: 2008 lsv

The problem with a how-to of this nature is that everyone's boat is different. My sub is a PITA to find all the screws buried in the carpet. Then the whole box pulls out in one piece. Once I get that far, the core is right there.

The case itself has 2 screws on the end to remove the core. But you will most likely need to remove the whole case from under the dash to have enough room to do that. As I recall there are like 4 bolts holding the case to the dash wall. Pull the hoses, unhook the wires & pull it all out. Your wires may need to be cut, in which case you might chose to install some plugs to make them easily removable. If the hoses are too tough to remove, then cut them close to the core. Then you can work on it out from under the dash.

Be sure that your core is mounted so that the inlet/outlet hoses are on the bottom side. Then you can install some radiator flush Ts or quick release fittings in the lines in the bilge to make it easy to drain in the future.



Cheers thanks Bill, ill give it a shot this week.

#6
BaBaLoO

BaBaLoO
  • Deck Hand
  • 262 posts
  • Joined July 28, 2009
  • Boat: 2008 lsv
yup 2 hours in and I already want to burn the thing down. I cant even get the sub box off! the screws are behind the box and there is no way I can get to them. I wanted to just the box in to free it up from the screws!!! I cant barely get to the 4 bolts you were talking about to remove the whole case. Before I try to attempt again is there anyway to get case out, and disconnect everything without removing the sub box( stock sub box from malibu) or should I just take it in to bu and get them to do it. what am I looking at to get it done by a pro if I supply the core??

#7
BaBaLoO

BaBaLoO
  • Deck Hand
  • 262 posts
  • Joined July 28, 2009
  • Boat: 2008 lsv
one more thing
:blowup: :mad: :mad: :rant: :rant: :frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated:

anyone in the vancouver bc area have any experience changing one out?

#8
eyepeeler

eyepeeler
  • 'Bu Savant
  • 682 posts
  • Joined May 06, 2008
  • Boat: 2001 Response LX

one more thing
:blowup: :mad: :mad: :rant: :rant: :frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated:

anyone in the vancouver bc area have any experience changing one out?

Hey, You are supposed to be making us a movie!

#9
Bill_AirJunky

Bill_AirJunky
  • Waaaaay Too Many
  • 9,476 posts
  • Joined August 12, 2005
  • Location: Liberty Lake, WA
  • Boat: 2005 Malibu vRide
Boat House View Boat House
HEhe, ouch. Sounds like knuckles are gettin bloody over there.

Wish I could help you. Like I said, every boat is a bit different. My sub box is not stock, but the screws are embedded in the box carpet going in at an angle to the floor. Then there is a trim piece on the left side wall that has to be removed (on my 05), that has like 2 easily spotted screws with washers.

No way I could get behind my sub box without removing it. First time took me a couple hours. Second time took like 3 minutes. I really had to hunt for those screws in the carpet. Since then I've done it on an 08 Vride too, and went thru the same issues finding all the screws.

Good luck getting yours out.

#10
BaBaLoO

BaBaLoO
  • Deck Hand
  • 262 posts
  • Joined July 28, 2009
  • Boat: 2008 lsv
If I decide to just put in a t valve to close it off and replace later would the fitting be 5/8? and would I just have to cap off the hose thats bringing water to the core or both hoses?

#11
Bill_AirJunky

Bill_AirJunky
  • Waaaaay Too Many
  • 9,476 posts
  • Joined August 12, 2005
  • Location: Liberty Lake, WA
  • Boat: 2005 Malibu vRide
Boat House View Boat House
Not sure of the diameter. But 5/8" is close. You will need to join the two hoses together. I've done that just using a small piece of PVC or copper tubing.

#12
shawndoggy

shawndoggy
  • Waaaaay Too Many
  • 7,233 posts
  • Joined August 24, 2009
  • Location: Reno ne-VA-duh
  • Boat: 2014 23 LSV
Yes, it's 5/8"

You can do it with home depot parts... (they are flush with these right now for spring)

one of these

Posted Image

with one of these in the middle

Posted Image
and one of these on the other side:

Posted Image

#13
BaBaLoO

BaBaLoO
  • Deck Hand
  • 262 posts
  • Joined July 28, 2009
  • Boat: 2008 lsv

Yes, it's 5/8"

You can do it with home depot parts... (they are flush with these right now for spring)

one of these

Posted Image

with one of these in the middle

Posted Image
and one of these on the other side:

Posted Image


awesome thanks for the pics.
Bill, do you mean both in and out hoses?

#14
Bill_AirJunky

Bill_AirJunky
  • Waaaaay Too Many
  • 9,476 posts
  • Joined August 12, 2005
  • Location: Liberty Lake, WA
  • Boat: 2005 Malibu vRide
Boat House View Boat House

awesome thanks for the pics.
Bill, do you mean both in and out hoses?

You should have 2 hoses on the core.... pull them & use the fitting like Shawn described to join the 2 together. Actually I'd forget about the valve & just join the two. You want the water to flow (like it does with the core in place) so I don't see any point in putting a valve on it.

#15
shawndoggy

shawndoggy
  • Waaaaay Too Many
  • 7,233 posts
  • Joined August 24, 2009
  • Location: Reno ne-VA-duh
  • Boat: 2014 23 LSV

You should have 2 hoses on the core.... pull them & use the fitting like Shawn described to join the 2 together. Actually I'd forget about the valve & just join the two. You want the water to flow (like it does with the core in place) so I don't see any point in putting a valve on it.


yeah, what he said. forget that middle pieces. female on one hose, male on the other, screw together.

#16
huskey87

huskey87
  • Ballast Buddy
  • 19 posts
  • Joined August 24, 2010
  • Boat: 2008 Malibu 23 LSV

I'm having my local dealer replace the 3 outlet heater core in my 08 23.  They said it's a $160 part...  Is this true?  seems kind of steep to me.



#17
Bill_AirJunky

Bill_AirJunky
  • Waaaaay Too Many
  • 9,476 posts
  • Joined August 12, 2005
  • Location: Liberty Lake, WA
  • Boat: 2005 Malibu vRide
Boat House View Boat House

Yea, it's true. They get a lot when you call it a "marine" part. I've replaced them with car heater cores for like $25 & never had another problem with it. You'll have to bring your core into a local auto parts store to get them to cross reference it.



#18
Woodski

Woodski
  • Crew Devotee
  • 1,824 posts
  • Joined February 21, 2007
  • Boat: 1994 Echelon LX

These cores tend to be similar to an older Ford core, specifically the 5/8" short straight hose attachment lines.  On the larger heaters the cores are longer than many auto parts stores will carry, so you might end up deciding to make a spacer rather than keep looking for the exact core.  A simple plastic 5/8" heater hose splicer also works well as a bypass device.  The typical automotive core is not made to handle hard corrosive lake/river water for very long, thus the life expecancy is pretty short.  They really hate frozen water and many fail due to that as the solder is pretty weak.  Over winter, they need to be filled with antifreeze or dry.  I have a shut off valve to stop the water going through the core when not needed, so that is only open in spring / fall, or when the CFO requests heat.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users