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My Ballast Install


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21 replies to this topic

#1
Cdoogles

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Well I finally got a weekend to start my boat projects! First on the list was hard plumbing the two 750's in the rear bays and supporting the engine divider panels. Of course I ran out of time before I got everything completely done, but I made a big dent in it. Here is my progress so far... hopefully I'll wrap up the project and get a chance to water test her about the time all the ice is off the lake!

Lots of supplies (and of course I didn't have everything I needed.....): Attached File  P1010600.JPG   29.65KB   374 downloads


I chose to tee off the existing thru-hulls for the fill pumps and used Tsunami 800s. If I redid this project, I think i would just spend the extra money and add new intakes. I ended up having to remove the cold water engine supply valve in order to install my pumps, and in the horizontal position it's still at tight fit. The install worked out in the end, but I think just drilling new holes would have been easier in the long run.
Attached File  P1010601.JPG   31.79KB   457 downloads Attached File  P1010604.JPG   35.52KB   393 downloads

I installed check valves about one foot down the line of each fill line and then ran the hoses to the rear of the boat to fill the sack on the aft, top port, also connected with a quick release.
Attached File  P1010611.JPG   20.53KB   311 downloads

For the drain pumps, I mounted them on the floor of the aft bays. I'm hoping I don't run into any issues with the sack essentially sitting on top of the pump, but I know others have gone this route, so hopefully it's not an issue.
Attached File  P1010605.JPG   30.91KB   201 downloads

#2
Cdoogles

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I did drill new holes for the thru-hulls for the drain lines. Drilling was a walk in the park, but I wasn't too impressed with the original holes that had been drilled.... Mine turned out much better. I added one to each side of the boat. The thru-hulls I orders were just a tiny bit different than the stock ones. I ordered these from wakemakers and was pre-warned that this might be the case on my boat. The difference was barely noticeable and I doubt anyone would notice besides me, but I decided to put two new ones on one side of the boat, and move one of the existing thru-hulls to the other side, so that when sitting side by side they would be identical.
Attached File  P1010628.JPG   18.65KB   112 downloads Attached File  P1010629.JPG   20.44KB   120 downloads

For the vent lines, I decided to install a Y with the existing vent lines. I know that for bags a vent line isn't a total necessity, but I like the convenience of not having to watch it fill, and just shutting it off when I hear water pouring overboard.
Attached File  P1010608.JPG   29.94KB   124 downloads

To control the pumps I installed two switches above the fuse box, below the throttle quadrant. Wiring them up with the instructions provided was pretty quick and easy... took much longer to run the wires to each pump.
Attached File  P1010633.JPG   22.86KB   142 downloads Attached File  P1010635.JPG   22.02KB   165 downloads

Attached Files


Edited by Cdoogles, February 22, 2011 - 08:55 PM.


#3
Cdoogles

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I ran out of hose and hose clamps, so that's the remaining portion to complete. Should take about 20-30 minutes and then she will be ready for the water test. Can't wait for summer!!!! I also did some gel coat work to remove a few scratches that were present when I bought the boat. Very happy with the results. Here is a quick before and after:

Attached File  P1010622.JPG   20.91KB   202 downloadsAttached File  P1010655.JPG   18.68KB   190 downloads

I will update with more pics when complete, I still have my LED install in work and a few more things on the to do list!!! Couldn't do it without all the great info on this site! Thanks everyone-

#4
Bobby Light

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Nice work, looks good. I would be worried about the drain pumps getting crushed. That happened liljohn.

#5
Cdoogles

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Nice work, looks good. I would be worried about the drain pumps getting crushed. That happened liljohn.


Where can I move them to? I was thinking just inside the center engine compartment, by the exhuast pipes, and then run hoses into the bay.... thoughts?

#6
Bobby Light

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Where can I move them to? I was thinking just inside the center engine compartment, by the exhuast pipes, and then run hoses into the bay.... thoughts?

yeah man thats where I put mine.

#7
Cdoogles

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Awesome. Thanks. I will move them when I get back over to finish the install. Thanks again!

#8
mac19

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I ran out of hose and hose clamps, so that's the remaining portion to complete. Should take about 20-30 minutes and then she will be ready for the water test. Can't wait for summer!!!! I also did some gel coat work to remove a few scratches that were present when I bought the boat. Very happy with the results. Here is a quick before and after:

Attached File  P1010622.JPG   20.91KB   202 downloadsAttached File  P1010655.JPG   18.68KB   190 downloads



Where did you get your gel coat repair supplies? I have about 8-10 small nicks no bigger than yours above the rub rail on the black gel coat of the boat I just purchased. I was quoted around a $1000 to have them repaired but I'm pretty confident I'm capabable of doing the repair my self as you did and this would leave me a good chunk of change for some surf ballast. None of them appear to be into the fiberglass but are beyond wet sanding could you please shed some more light on the repair process and what products you used, your repair looks awesome :rockon: !! Doing a seach I did find some references to Spectrum gel coat repair kits is this what you used?

#9
liljohn

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I can say first hand that you need to move the drain pump. Right I.aide the engine bay is perfect only takes a small chunk of hose. Also if your going to surf run your drain lines to the opposite side for the bag. (starboard bag drains port) it will help with any siphon affect.

#10
spencer

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Awesome. Thanks. I will move them when I get back over to finish the install. Thanks again!

Nice work on the install. That is going to be awesome.

I have done it both ways. It you are worried about the durability of the pumps flip the sac around so that the drain pump is mounted under the seat and not against the back wall. The only time you would need to worry is when you have shrek standing on the swim platform.

I have experienced issues with the Supra and Moomba boats that use the same type of drain system that you are thinking about going to. If you do go that way... Try to keep the hose from the bag to pump as short as possible and make sure it is below the port on the bag since you are relying on gravity to prime the pumps.

#11
REW

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Where did you get your gel coat repair supplies? I have about 8-10 small nicks no bigger than yours above the rub rail on the black gel coat of the boat I just purchased. I was quoted around a $1000 to have them repaired but I'm pretty confident I'm capabable of doing the repair my self as you did and this would leave me a good chunk of change for some surf ballast. None of them appear to be into the fiberglass but are beyond wet sanding could you please shed some more light on the repair process and what products you used, your repair looks awesome :rockon: !! Doing a seach I did find some references to Spectrum gel coat repair kits is this what you used?



Nice work on the gel coat repair I am looking at the same thing, post up some information on the repair please

#12
Cdoogles

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Nice work on the gel coat repair I am looking at the same thing, post up some information on the repair please


Purchased the gel from: http://www.spectrumcolor.com/ Give them a call and tell them the year/make/color and they will take care of you.

There is a great write-up available here: http://www.wakeworld...ad.php?t=674757 and here: http://www.wakeworld...ad.php?t=282492

Let me know if you have any more specific questions and I will be glad to help! Thanks-

#13
Cdoogles

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I can say first hand that you need to move the drain pump. Right I.aide the engine bay is perfect only takes a small chunk of hose. Also if your going to surf run your drain lines to the opposite side for the bag. (starboard bag drains port) it will help with any siphon affect.


Thanks LilJohn. I'll keep them at the rear of the sack and move them outside of the divider wall to protect them. Do you think I will still get siphoning, with the pump back there and the drain port being at the front of the sack? It seems like running the hose up high under the gunnel and having the drain port in front of the sack would accomplish about the same thing as doing what you are saying. Although once surfing the other side of the boat will be even higher up which wouldn't hurt..... It's an easy change either way and just a few feet more hose. Thanks again for the input-

#14
liljohn

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You will not want to drain off the front of the sac. You will find that it will not drain all the way. The spoon issue is hit and miss. But everyone I know running over 1000# on the surf side has the issue. Might wanna wait and see. You did an awesome job I did the exact same thing last year. I did drill new intakes under the motor. Super easy to do by the way.

#15
old skool malibu

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You will not want to drain off the front of the sac. You will find that it will not drain all the way. The spoon issue is hit and miss. But everyone I know running over 1000# on the surf side has the issue. Might wanna wait and see. You did an awesome job I did the exact same thing last year. I did drill new intakes under the motor. Super easy to do by the way.



I run my drain off the front and I have seen picks of Paul from Bakes's installs and he has them at the front as well. I have no issues with the bags draining, if there is any left (perhaps a few cups) then simply angle the bag towards the pump. You wont have the siiphon effect unless our are over 1000lbs...I have no issues with the 750's. Nice job!

#16
Cdoogles

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Finally got over to finish the install.. even dropped it in the water and water tested it. Everything worked great! Here is where I moved the drain pumps to (without engine wall installed): Attached File  P1040004c1.JPG   59.36KB   196 downloads

(with engine wall installed): Attached File  P1040007C1.JPG   21.81KB   206 downloads

I need to buy some quick connect 90 degree fittings instead of the straight one's that are on there, but other than that everything works great!

My final ballast setup (for now) has the quad MLS system, and the two 750's in the rear on switches for both fill and drain. Then I manually fill the Integrated bow sack in the bow and the Fly High Tube sack in the walk way... Power wedge is also available for shaping and adjusting things.

Thanks to everyone on the forums for all the help, tips, and ideas!

#17
radikal

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cant wait to see wakeboarding wake and surf wake ....... !!

Nice job !!!

#18
Cdoogles

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Anyone else use a "tee" for the fill pumps and have priming or filling issues? I need to keep playing with it, but twice now I have been filling the rear sacks and the starboard one has stopped filling. It's not empty, but it appears that maybe it stopped pumping water around when I turned the stock hard tank off. I need to experiment more to know for sure, but I have had no problems with the port side sack filling or draining..yet.

#19
inlandlaker

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Nice work. Thanks for sharing the information on the gelcoat repair as well.

#20
board brained

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Finally got over to finish the install.. even dropped it in the water and water tested it. Everything worked great! Here is where I moved the drain pumps to (without engine wall installed): Attached File  P1040004c1.JPG   59.36KB   196 downloads

(with engine wall installed): Attached File  P1040007C1.JPG   21.81KB   206 downloads

I need to buy some quick connect 90 degree fittings instead of the straight one's that are on there, but other than that everything works great!

My final ballast setup (for now) has the quad MLS system, and the two 750's in the rear on switches for both fill and drain. Then I manually fill the Integrated bow sack in the bow and the Fly High Tube sack in the walk way... Power wedge is also available for shaping and adjusting things.

Thanks to everyone on the forums for all the help, tips, and ideas!


hey thanks for posting this.....I messed around with my rear ballast numerous set ups trying to get it dialled, read this last week, and changed mine over to this set up and it works great. I did it is bit different I notched out a bit on the engine wall so the pumps could be flat against the wall (mostly in the engine area) and it lined up so the drain could run down the inside of the engine wall then over to the through hull.

anyway, thanks for posting this...this is why i love this site!!!!




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