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Heater core replacement


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28 replies to this topic

#1
CarveItUp

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We have a leak in our heater core (Heatercraft 2-port model) so I decided to go the Napa replacement route (p/n 660-3100). The core looked right at the store but I found that the hose barbs don't quite fit. They are 1/4" too close together and the outside barb is 1/4"+ too far toward the center. Enough so that the mounting bracket that holds the hose barbs won't go on.

Has anyone else run in to this problem when replacing their core? Is it just variability in the core manufacture, my heater box? I'm worried about forcing the fit because it seems like that would stress the solder joints. I could re-do the box but maybe I should just buy the replacement from SkiDim....

Any help is much appreciated!

#2
Addictedto6

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We have a leak in our heater core (Heatercraft 2-port model) so I decided to go the Napa replacement route (p/n 660-3100). The core looked right at the store but I found that the hose barbs don't quite fit. They are 1/4" too close together and the outside barb is 1/4"+ too far toward the center. Enough so that the mounting bracket that holds the hose barbs won't go on.

Has anyone else run in to this problem when replacing their core? Is it just variability in the core manufacture, my heater box? I'm worried about forcing the fit because it seems like that would stress the solder joints. I could re-do the box but maybe I should just buy the replacement from SkiDim....

Any help is much appreciated!


Posted Image My replacement core from Napa was an exact match.

#3
Arkid

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We have a leak in our heater core (Heatercraft 2-port model) so I decided to go the Napa replacement route (p/n 660-3100). The core looked right at the store but I found that the hose barbs don't quite fit. They are 1/4" too close together and the outside barb is 1/4"+ too far toward the center. Enough so that the mounting bracket that holds the hose barbs won't go on.

Has anyone else run in to this problem when replacing their core? Is it just variability in the core manufacture, my heater box? I'm worried about forcing the fit because it seems like that would stress the solder joints. I could re-do the box but maybe I should just buy the replacement from SkiDim....

Any help is much appreciated!


Mine was a hair out, the in and out were a little close together. I just hack sawed about a 1/4" from the case and it slipped right in.

#4
Big Mac

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Like I said.... Posted Image

Personally, spending the $80 for something that fits exactly, not having to drive the 40 miles to NAPA and back, then there and back again because it didn't fit right, having it delivered right to my door.... just keeps looking better and better to Olive and me. Posted Image

#5
Addictedto6

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Like I said.... Posted Image

Personally, spending the $80 for something that fits exactly, not having to drive the 40 miles to NAPA and back, then there and back again because it didn't fit right, having it delivered right to my door.... just keeps looking better and better to Olive and me. Posted Image



:lol: :salute: Good thing Napa is on my way to the pond :)

#6
Addictedto6

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One followup question - is Skidim selling the new upgraded heatercraft cores, or the original design? I looked at the heatercraft web site and the skidim web site and the items look different (heatercraft core only(?) $92; skidim box + core $83). Maybe it's just a different picture. But the Skidim website has H200 as the product, and heatercraft has H202 as the product.

Edited by Addictedto6, June 25, 2007 - 07:17 PM.


#7
CarveItUp

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Like I said.... Posted Image

Personally, spending the $80 for something that fits exactly, not having to drive the 40 miles to NAPA and back, then there and back again because it didn't fit right, having it delivered right to my door.... just keeps looking better and better to Olive and me. Posted Image



:lol: :salute: Good thing Napa is on my way to the pond :)


I figure it's worth a try since Napa is close by and I'd have to wait several days to get the Heatercraft or Skidim parts. Too bad it doesn't look like it will work out. I'll probably give SkiDim a call tomorrow to see which parts they are stocking (200 or 202). Or maybe call Heatercraft to make sure that the 202 core will fit my 200 box (since they only send the core).

All in all it's a typical project. Good thing I have a bypass for the heater hoses and that it's going to be in the 90s at the lake we're heading to this week... Posted Image

#8
Big Mac

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I figure it's worth a try since Napa is close by and I'd have to wait several days to get the Heatercraft or Skidim parts. Too bad it doesn't look like it will work out. I'll probably give SkiDim a call tomorrow to see which parts they are stocking (200 or 202). Or maybe call Heatercraft to make sure that the 202 core will fit my 200 box (since they only send the core).

All in all it's a typical project. Good thing I have a bypass for the heater hoses and that it's going to be in the 90s at the lake we're heading to this week... Posted Image


When I replaced mine at the beginning of this season, Heatercraft told me that the old cores had been indeed problematic. They sent me the whole unit, with the actual core already installed in the grey box. They told me that they don't send just the core because they're a different size. All I had to do was reattach the blower motor and fan and reinstall, then ship the old grey box back to them. The replacement grey box was slightly larger than the original one that it replaced. The new core, in addition to being much better made, was also a different size and wouldn't have fit in the old grey enclosure. The motor/blower unit matched up exactly but the mounting ears where the grey box screws to the boat were different so I had to use new screw holes on my boat's bulkhead. I noted also that MasterCraft actually glued the heater hoses to the barbs, for some reason, in addition to the hose clamps, meaning I had to cut the hoses off. The loss of that extra inch on each hose was a little problematic from a length standpoint, but all-in-all, the re-installation was pretty straightforward except for the PITA factor common to all boat maintenance.

#9
CarveItUp

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Thanks for the info on the new core size. I guess I'll call HeaterCraft today and figure out which way to go...

#10
Addictedto6

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I just added this to another thread, but since this one was specifically about the change in heater core, I'm going to post here also.

Just an fyi, I was researching cores for a ski buddy, and I found the answer as to why some folks had problems using the Napa 660-3100 core in their current housing.

Per the Heatercraft web site, the housing was changed in 2004.


http://www.heatercra...?productid=H202

"H202 (Heater Core for 200H & 500H Hydronic Heater)
SKU H202
Replacement tube and fin heater core for 200H and 500H hydronic heater. 5/8" hose barb. NOTE: If you are replacing a heater core for a heater purchased prior to 2004 an updated heater housing will be required (#2H20CWtwo outlet housing"

#11
Shoeskiman

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Hi, I know this is an old thread...but looking to replace the heater core in our 1997 Eschelon with the 15.75" X 6.25"X 2".
Does anyone have a cross reference to a brand so I can get a new aluminum core,
to replace the three outlet heatercraft that is leaking and dripping water into the blower...

The Y fitting looks like a great idea to have constant heat and I may make the install the quick disconnects to complete the easy AF weatherization.

I plan to rotate the assembly up to and mount it to the foot rest "dam" so it is easier to work on and install.

#12
bretski75

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I just replaced mine in my 97 Echelon .

SKIDIM

#13
WBL skier

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My heater isn't putting out any heat. Does that mean the core is shot? How do I check if it is leaking (or leaking into the blower) as suggested in the earlier post? Thanks in advance for any help.

#14
Bill_AirJunky

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If the core was leaking, then you'd find warm water on the floor of the boat. Their usually installed up inside the driver's side dash, so it would be right on the driver's feet, or maybe in the walk thru. Not to mention the water would probably zap the fan & it wouldn't blow at all.

As for the lack of heat, there are a few reasons why this could be. If your core was plugged with lake-junk, then water wouldn't make it into the core. Do you have any heat? Cool air? How about heat when the engine RPMs are up at 2k or 3k RPMs?

Many of our boats used an old method of installing the heater that uses the engine's water pump for circulation. A number of years ago Heatercraft began using a Y-fitting to install the return hose on the raw water pump. You can find theY-fitting on Skidim.com's site here. The raw water pump circulates the water better & creates heat at lower RPMs.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky, September 19, 2011 - 02:13 PM.


#15
ed obermeier

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Something not mensioned in any of the previous posts, and maybe this has changed. In the past I've been told by a couple of different sources that the heater cores Heatercraft uses have some sort of "coating" inside it to help prevent corrosion. Remember, in an automobile you're using anti-freeze containing an anti corrosive. In the boat you're running raw water through everything, much more likely to cause corrosion.

Heatercraft had a run of bad cores in the early 2000's (had one) that corroded out after a couple of years of service; was told that around that time they had shifted production to Mexico and the cores they were getting from Mexico didn't have the coating, thus the problem. When they moved production somewhere else they supposedly were coated. I've had a couple of marine mechanics tell me not to use a NAPA-type equivalent for that reason, unless you like replacing your heater core on a regular basis. As I said this may have changed but I'm not aware that it has or hasn't. For the (relatively) small difference in price I think I'd just go with the OEM replacement from Heatercraft and not have to worry about it.

Ed

#16
Bill_AirJunky

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I wish I had some level of confidence in the "coating" used by Heatercraft..... or that the Napa cores were all that bad. I replaced the core in my MC 205 some 10 yrs ago with a Napa core, and sold the boat around 5 yrs ago to a guy who still owns it & uses it on the lake I live on today. And yep, the core is still goin strong.
My neighbor bought an 08 Vride in 09 that was not properly winterized.... it was a repo deal. The heater leaked the day he brought it home. We replaced it with a Napa core. That was 2 winters ago. And the heater is still working fine.

Kinda irks me too because I live less than 10 miles from the Heatercraft factory. Napa is probably about 5 miles away so I have it pretty easy either way I go. But the prices being 4 or 5 times as much kinda get to me. :unsure:

#17
ed obermeier

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My info was from probably 10 years ago so maybe it has changed (hope so). Just thought I'd throw it out for the sake of information. If people aren't having problems with the more recent issue NAPA replacements crapping out after a few years that's a positive IMO.

#18
racer808

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Do I have to replace my heater core or can I just cap the hoses?  Mine is leaking but we never use it, probably never will & I would want to figure out where the hoses are to do quick disconnects before replacing the core, which I don't feel like messing with right now.  



#19
skiatook_bu

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Do I have to replace my heater core or can I just cap the hoses?  Mine is leaking but we never use it, probably never will & I would want to figure out where the hoses are to do quick disconnects before replacing the core, which I don't feel like messing with right now.  

I made a jumper hose and run it from the manifold to the water pump. (I actually had enough extra hose to cut out a section.) It's a good idea to keep the hose on the boat anyway in case the heater core does start leaking. It just takes a few minutes to pop on the bypass hose.

 

I also just finished repairing my heater core tonight. Solder/Flux and a propane torch. It looks really sloppy, but I hooked it up to the water hose outside - no leaks.

 

The local radiator shop told me years ago I could only buy a new core, they are not repairable.



#20
racer808

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I made a jumper hose and run it from the manifold to the water pump. (I actually had enough extra hose to cut out a section.) It's a good idea to keep the hose on the boat anyway in case the heater core does start leaking. It just takes a few minutes to pop on the bypass hose.

 

I also just finished repairing my heater core tonight. Solder/Flux and a propane torch. It looks really sloppy, but I hooked it up to the water hose outside - no leaks.

 

The local radiator shop told me years ago I could only buy a new core, they are not repairable.

HOw do you make the jumper hose?  I would love some more info on this so I can by pass the heater for the year.  As much detail as possible please.  






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