Check the strut to make sure it isn't bent as well.  I suspect it would bend before the shaft does, and may be a large part of the problem.

After straightening a whole lot of aluminum arrows back in my archery days, I would say that you could certainly straighten a prop shaft.  You could make a roller stand with some ball bearings and use a dial indicator to test for straightness. 

As an alternative, you could turn it between centers if you have a big enough lathe.  Turn it relatively slowly and use a marker to find the high point.

Find the high point and gently bend it on a press stand.  Rinse and repeat.  It goes pretty quickly once you figure out what you are doing.

I suspect you could do it on the boat by lifting vertically against the strut, but that assumes that the strut is where the bend is.  Your dial indicator in a variety of locations along the shaft will help you know if that is true.

And don't forget to clean and inspect the return (ground) cables as well.  The poor connection could be on battery plus or minus.

I periodically lie on my back and clean every connection I can find under the dash, then spray all of them with light spray oil to help keep oxygen away.  It is basically a miracle cure for the things that don't work well, and a great way to familiarize myself with the circuits in the boat.

8 hours ago, athingisathing said:

I found the kit.... this has everything to connect to all the female plugs that plug into amps in the 2023 lsv with a 9502 and 1206.

This kit will have all you need. This and the color code and the bb-10 kit 

https://www.amazon.com/Amliber-Ratcheting-Connectors-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B0BZBZHVQ6/ref=sr_1_7?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TAA0dV4XZ9c2LyAysJMYJ1S37JHsGf_lilVjnSNWpX24lNz4F0uPytL2b38VYiD0uKv9fIb1xO1VKE3HyxQiqmeEGJlTfk44EmLCWWU0lnb5fNMum_ZXcOG9ujTbiM6rxrDmuVgHyZq806ATjWznWo-2Dda65JyQ1P9F7F3ZjeDdF2_u6WJik9BQgdshLd2oLsA7NP7ZBynw7_lnqUcnDyA_efmY0UlOfUH-v_exIqmI3zcasKVIP9DT0Rxm_3AWOC4qr5TI5LrpmusfRkh67i76WUQme1s0NpACU7f-5Cs.GNqOidr8IHQ92paRMAv3b5VTB48t7-IKEdTsQu54Jpg&dib_tag=se&keywords=Deutsch+Connector+Kit+with+Deutsch+Crimper&qid=1713410613&sr=8-7

Thoughts

No you will need the “b keyed” deutsch connectors. It varies which depending on how boat was ordered. Dt06-08pb dt06-08pb, tower speaker is always dt06-04 (not b key) and remote signal on boats with 6ch cabin is dt06-02 (not b key). Boats with 4ch cabin have remote signal on the 12pin. Just buy corresponding parts and pin them to the schematic.  

12 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

towers / brackets / racks / electronics / vinyl / hardware etc etc etc are all captive manufacturer specific items now.  Shoot, Malibu even marinizes its own engines on the 2020+ boats.  So I'm not sure it's accurate that the boat can be 100% serviced without access to malibu's parts catalog.  Obvs shadetree hacks like myself can change the fluids, but when it comes to replacing a busted heat exchanger or something like that... that's gonna be a malibu specific part.

I'd guess malibuboatparts .com will grow to be more integral during this period. I know they stock a lot of the malibu specific stuff. 

8 hours ago, kcpilotpat said:

I have a vibration on a 2001 sunsetter 21.  I put a dial indicator on the prop shaft. in front of the strut I had .003 runout.  Just in front of the prop I have .035 runout. It looks like it's a b**** to pull the shaft.  It's hard to get to the coupling under the Walters V drive.  I'm considering trying to straighten the shaft using a hydraulic jack to push up on the shaft. I would do it slowly using the dial indicator to measure the deflection and sneak up on it. Has anyone in the group tried this? Is the shaft easier to get out than it appears to replace the shaft or have it professionally straightened? All input is appreciated.  I'll post photos and experiences either way. 

Pat

Seems like a good way to break something.  Not sure that you should actually be able to straighten the shaft even out of the boat.  Bent = replace.